Choosing the Best Birds for Your AVIARY

Commercial home aviary (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When starting a new hobby, it is always prudent to learn everything there is to know about it in order to be a success at it. An example of such a hobby is aviculture, which is the practice of keeping and breeding birds, contributing significantly to the upkeep and preservation of avian habitats by raising public awareness.

Aviculture is also one way of contributing to the environment as keeping birds in an aviary under controlled conditions protects them from natural disasters and situations that can severely decrease their numbers. It also enables bird enthusiasts to study the behavior of certain avian species and find ways to forestall their extinction.

Aviaries have been in existence since the 1800s, with an aviary known as the Raven Cage being considered as one of the oldest structures in the London Zoo. An aviary is akin to a cage but where cages confine birds to a particular space, aviaries allow them to fly in much larger spaces. Also, unlike cages, aviaries simulate a bird's natural environment with the addition of plants and shrubbery within the space.

If you're considering starting one in your home and deciding on which birds to choose, there are several factors you need to think about and seriously consider if you are to be a successful aviculturist. First, you must consider the climate in your location and choose birds that are well-suited for it. Also, don't make the mistake of choosing birds that are too large, too loud or too expensive as they can become ultimately too much to handle.

For beginners, the first choice should be canaries which are among the most popular aviary birds in the world. Well-known for its singing prowess and vibrant colors, the canary is ideal for those just starting out in aviculture because they don't require too much caring for and will be quite happy to be left to their own devices. If you want a singing canary you'll have to make sure you get a male one as female canaries don't sing.

Another bird that is known for its singing prowess is finches. As fast flyers, they can be fun to watch as they zip from one corner of the aviary to another, twittering in tones that are several decibels below what parrots are capable of. Finches are ideally bought in pairs and need lots of flying space as they do love to fly. Be careful though, that they don't get too crowded as territorial fights can erupt.

Budgerigars or parakeets are perhaps the most ideal aviary birds since they are relatively inexpensive, easy to dispose of and just as easily replaced, which is why some people tend to disregard this bird and forget the fact that they can be trained to be good talkers despite their small voices. When patiently handled, budgies can bond closely to their human companions and are ideal pets for children. Quaker parakeets, on the other hand, need to be handled carefully as they are considered illegal in some states because they are considered threats to local agriculture.

If you want birds that can be petted, then cockatiels are what you should get. They love to snuggle and be petted which is why they are considered the most affectionate birds. These small parrots also come in vibrant colors and can also be trained to talk and others in whistling. Most parrot species like the poicephalus parrots and the Pionus parrots are an easy-going and gently bunch that is not as noisy as some of their mates and can also be easily taught the gift of gab. You can also consider their livelier and flashier cousins the Amazon parrots, who although slightly quieter, love to attract attention to themselves and are easy to handle as well.

And last but not the least there's the peach-faced lovebirds which, in addition to being easy to care for are also affectionate and love to be petted. They can be carried in your pocket or perched on your shoulder but must be bought in pairs as otherwise, they waste away without a suitable companion. They tend to be on the quiet side but are known to be able to learn a few phrases every now and then.

Of course, having the best aviaries to keep your birds it is also important in your success as an aviculturist. 

The great thing about getting aviaries these days is they are available online as well so that all you need to do is to pick and choose the best size and style for your home or backyard. Remember to get one that has enough space so that even if you put varied species in it you won't find yourself having to settle territorial fights. Also get ones that are easy to clean, preferably with removable bottom trays to clean droppings easily.

By Jesse Burns Whatever your reasons for starting a bird aviary are, you'll need to get the best bird aviaries money can buy. Check Simplysheds bird aviary and be on your way to becoming the best aviculturist possible. Article Source: EzineArticles

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Simple Ways to Attract HUMMINGBIRDS to Your Garden

A female ruby-throated hummingbird (Archilochus colubris) sipping nectar from scarlet beebalm (Monarda didyma).
 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A lot of people think that hanging out a quick hummingbird feeder is enough to encourage hummers into their gardens. While hummingbirds will stop by and eat from these feeders, they tend to quickly move on to more welcoming gardens. Creating an ideal garden for hummingbirds offers more than just food. They offer all of the basic essentials for bird life. 

Hummingbirds come and stay in gardens that are perfectly suited for them. Here's what you need to create an ideal garden for hummingbirds.

Many hummingbirds are a migratory species of bird that spend the winters in South and Central America and in the spring travel all the way up to North America and even into parts of Canada where they spend the warm season breeding, raising young, and preparing to fly south again. Hummingbirds rely on the nectar found in flowers, which they get plenty of in South America. But, they need the abundant insects found in the spring and summer in the lands of North America and Canada to successfully raise healthy babies. 

They also spend a lot of time resting- usually about 80% of their lives is spent sitting and resting their tiny bodies. Providing a garden that's full of healthy insect activity with lots of nectar sources and plenty of thin twigs, branches, and other similar places to rest are all going to entice a hummer to stick around. Even more important, providing a safe place to nest will help the hummingbirds stay through the season, and return yearly.

Rely on plants that hummingbirds enjoy to eat from. Tubular red, blue, and purple perennial flowers are highly attractive to hummingbirds. The wild versions of plants usually create the most nectar which will encourage hummingbirds to come back again and again, but this isn't a hard-set rule. Many cultivars provide plenty of nectar for hummingbirds.

Hummingbird plants include:

• Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
• Azalea
• Honeysuckles
• Weigela
• Monarda (Bee Balm)
• Agastache
• Hosta
• Foxglove
• Yucca
• Rose of Sharon
• Viburnum
• Crape Myrtle
• Summersweet (Clethra)
• Hydrangea
• Mockorange
• Potentilla
• Trumpet Vine
• Salvia
• Coral Bells (Heuchera)
• Mints

Consider tying up a thin line if you don't have a clothesline already. Hummingbirds of North America are well adapted to life with people and their homes and are quite fond of perching and resting on clotheslines, wires, extension cords, chicken wire fences, or any thin and stable cables. Trees and shrubs are also very welcome resting spots too.

Offer a moving source of water for hummers to bathe in and drink from. Despite assuming that these small birds get all of the water they need from nectar, they are still observed using birdbaths consistently.

In the garden, try to refrain from using chemical commercial pesticides. They are long-acting, so even if you use them in a specific area they often stick around and continue to kill for weeks after the application. Instead, encourage a healthy bug population. If you're over-run by grasshoppers or Japanese beetles, for example, there are plenty of specific traps that work to capture these pets and bring their numbers down to a less destructive number. One option is to use a natural organic insecticidal soap for aphid infestations that won't harm hummingbirds if it's ingested in small amounts.

So... go beyond the hummingbird feeder for attracting and keeping those gorgeous winged jewels in your garden.

By Cheryl D. Jones Cheryl D. Jones shares gardening tips and landscape ideas through her blog, newsletters and her nursery's website. Visit GreenwoodNursery.com for a full line of plants including trees, flowering shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses and ground covers. Join the Greenwood Gardeners Club free to receive Greenwood Nursery's weekly newsletter, seasonal promotions and 10% off your first order. Click here for a listing of plants to attract hummingbirds to your garden, as well as butterflies and bees. - Google+ Article Source: EzineArticles

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Why We Need And How To Revive PIGEON RACING

At cage. Bangladesh. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Pigeon racing has been around since the 1800's and has lived on to this day. The fascinating aspects of the sport are numerous, to say the least, and the bond that man can create with the bird is a treasure that everybody needs to experience at some point in their lives.

However, I've noticed recently that the sport is steadily declining in popularity. Sure, we still see a plethora of websites about pigeon racing on the internet. But if you notice, none or only a few of them don't go out on a limb to promote the sport at all. All we see are charts, racing results, pigeon auctions and obscure pedigrees. All of these only serve to bore those people who have not been exposed to the hobby yet. If we wish to promote the sport to as many people as possible, we have to begin focusing again on the things that led us to the sport in the first place.

The sport's decline in popularity can perhaps be attributed to a lot of factors. First, kids today have a short attention span. This is why most of them tend to lose interest when they discover that racing pigeons take a lot of time and effort. Children today would rather go to the internet and tend to their online farms instead. Or maybe the thought of taking care of pigeons is not their idea of being "cool".

Here's what I think. If we want to spark interest in pigeon racing as a hobby and a sport, an effort has to be made in regards to reaching out to kids. After all, the fascination with pigeons is in its truest form in the eyes of a child. Their minds are not subjected to corruption by the lure of money that comes with the sport, nor would they care much about a pigeon's type of pedigree. They only care about the pigeon's majestic appearance, the beauty it emanates through its stark shades of aquamarine, and most of all, the grace displayed as it streaks through the sky. I can feel pigeon racing professionals laugh in jest at this genuflection, but let's not forget that most of us have been led to the sport because of these same reasons.

As someone who spent much of his childhood racing pigeons, I have learned invaluable lessons that I still find useful as an adult. The sense of responsibility that one acquires in raising these magnificent birds is something that I'll always treasure. Racing pigeons have also instilled in me a competitive fire that few of my peers can match. The data gathering, the strict training program, and the meticulous feeding, etc. have all contributed to my sense of discipline. All these things played a big part in my success as a professional adult. Wouldn't it be awesome if your kids can benefit from the same hobby and in turn, make them better individuals as they grow up? 

If you love the sport of racing pigeons, stop for one moment and visualize a child smiling while a beautiful pigeon is perched on his right arm. Now that's truly a sight to behold.

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First Steps In Training Your PARAKEET To Talk

A Red-breasted parakeet (Moustached Parakeet)
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Parakeets have always been the most popular pets among birds. They are known for their chitchatting and easy domestication. Their basic color feather is yellowish green, but they also come in other colors, such as colorful blue, and sometimes, they can be completely white or yellow.

A parakeet as a pet usually means a lot of fun. It is true that they can be so noisy, but it is very interesting and nice watching them bristle and chat with themselves or even with a little thing. As any other kind of parrots, they mimic the sounds they often hear. They usually imitate phone ringing, bell ringing, or even a part of your favorite tunes. However, when it comes to talking, it is a little harder for them to emulate words, usually because of some consonants which they find hard to pronounce. Yet, it is not impossible. With a little effort and patience, you can successfully teach them to pronounce a few single words, even shorter sentences.

For the beginning, if you haven't acquired your parakeet yet, it is great, because buying is the crucial step in teaching your parakeet words. Make sure to buy a very young parakeet, preferably a chick, because they are best at learning words and sounds while they are young. If they are old, you will never be able to teach them to talk. When choosing a parakeet, let it be a male. Males are easier to domesticate and teach, and they prefer chatting to squawking. Females are usually wild, and you will need more time to domesticate them and teach them words.

This may be cruel, but if you want to teach your parakeet talk, don't buy a couple. When they are together, they focus on each other and will not pay much attention to external sounds. You will also notice that it will take longer for them to imitate a simple sound; it often happens that they produce nothing but chitchat and squawking. The same applies to little mirrors; once a parakeet has it in its cage, it will never separate from it, and thus, will not pay attention to you or the sounds.

Now when you have all done well, start with learning. Start with simple and short words with more vowels. Once they master the simple words, they will easily overcome the harder ones. However, do not despair if your parakeet curiously and silently watches you while teaching it; it is a good sign because it tries to memorize the words. Patience is essential in this case. Sometimes, it takes only a few days, but sometimes a couple of weeks; but patience always pays off in the end.

As you can see, a good start is very important here. It is not just about buying a parakeet with a beautiful color but taking a young bird that will learn quickly and be your friend for several years. However, keep in mind that all parakeets are not the same; some will learn slower, some faster, and some will be able to imitate just a few simple words. It also depends on how much time you can devote to it. So, good luck!

By Miona Milenkovic - Article Source: EzineArticles

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All You Wanted To Know About BIRDCAGES

Photo: Pxhere

Home is where the heart is, isn’t it? Ever thought about those who have no home and make us feel good day as we enjoy their music and admire their beauty. Shouldn’t they also have a beautiful place of their own? Yes, we are talking about the birds whose melodies we wake to every morning and who warm our hearts. These pretty creatures have their nests perched on trees and shrubs. However, when the humans have started keeping birds as pets, the pretty birds do not have the luxury of having their own nests. This is how the concept of birdcages came into being. Since birdcages are the only option that we humans have for them, why not make it beautiful?

Types of Birdcages

There are many kinds of birdcages available t day for the birds. Since birds can be classified into three sizes, small, medium and large, cages are also provided in the same way (i.e., small, medium, and large). It is true that no one else but you knows the best your bird requires, so you’re always advised to get your birdcage designed as an acrylic bird cage which is ideal for any bird that you may own. The birdcages come in a variety of designs and materials, including the manzanita, ribbonwood, grape wood and acrylic perches. Aside from that, you can buy bird toys for your bird/s to play with. You can also make sure they have a wide variety of food to eat.

Decorating Your Bird’s Home

Select the birdcage that’s easy to clean. For this, you can place a tray into the cage, which you can remove easily when you need to wash it off. You can also make sure your birds get their well-deserved rest by purchasing a cover to place over their cage at night. You can buy lots of toys and hanging materials to enhance the looks and charm of their home. For example, you can give put a ladder in their cage that they can walk up and down on. This is just one of many ways to keep them from getting bored and enjoying their home. Your birds are special to you, so they deserve a special home.

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Keeping MACAW PARROTS As Pets

Two macaws - a Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao) on right,
and a Blue-and-gold Macaw (Ara ararauna) on the left.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Keeping Macaw parrots as pets isn't too difficult, but it does require a lot of time and commitment. Be sure that you know how to take care of one of these majestic birds before you bring one into your home, so you don't get any surprises about behavior or needs along the way.

There are a few different species of Macaw that are available in a wide variety of sizes and colors. There are Scarlet Macaws, Blue and Gold Macaws, Blue Throated Macaws, Military Macaws, and Greenwing Macaws. The oldest reported Macaw lived for over 100 years. Although the normal expectancy of Macaws is about 80, it's still a lifelong commitment you have to make with Macaws.

To help your Macaw reach his or her full potential, you need to feed him right. In the wild, Macaws mainly eat fruits, vegetables, seeds, and nuts. You will have to mimic this as best you can, offering a good variety of fruits and vegetables, as well as some seeds and nuts. Be sure that the seeds and nuts are fed sparingly, as the captive Macaw doesn't have the same energy requirements as a wild one, and could become overweight with too many of these fattening foods. You should never feed a Macaw onions, avocados, tomatoes, chocolate, anything with caffeine, or salted nuts and seeds.

Another important part of having a Macaw is understanding behavior. Most of the negative behaviors such as excessive screaming and bad eating habits stem from wild instincts. When you know what the rood of these problems are, you can quickly and easily solve them rather than fighting with your Macaw over these things. Be sure to have a plethora of information on Macaws and their behavior before you get one. You can track down this information on the internet or in books.

Some behavior problems stem from improper socialization. Macaws that mainly interact with just one person will bond with that person and may show aggression when other people try to handle them. Solving this problem is easy. Just be sure that everybody in the house spends time talking to, cuddling with, and giving affection to your Macaw. It's important for the Macaw to know that they are a valued member of the household like he would be a member of a large flock in the wild. Once you get these things down, keeping Macaw parrots as pets is both fun and rewarding.

By Alan Stables - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Finally, Our Female LOVEBIRD Laid Eggs

Photo: Publicdomainpictures.net

Do you intend to keep and breed lovebirds? If you do, there are things that you need to consider before you buy a couple of lovebirds to breed. As a beginner in keeping this type of bird, you need to know many things before you decide to buy them. If you want to see them breed, you have to be sure that the couple consists of a real female and a real male lovebird. Failing in determining their sexes will result in failure in breeding because homosexual birds will not result in infertile eggs to produce lovebird's chicks. 

Another thing that you need to know is the age of the couple. If you do not want to wait too long for the couple to breed, you have to be sure that the lovebird couple that you buy are fully grown a couple. Because lovebirds reach maturity in the age range of 8 to 12 months old and are ready for breeding when they are between 12 to 15 months old. Lovebirds have a long lifespan if they are well taken care of. So, you have to prepare a good home for them to stay and breed for a long period of time.

What makes people interested in lovebirds? It is hard to deny that lovebirds have special ways of attracting pet lovers. First of all, lovebirds are cute with their colorful feathers and parrot's look. The lovebird couple invokes their keeper's love with their attractive look and nice and loving behaviors. The most interesting behavior that can be demonstrated by a lovebird couple is their loving behavior. They demonstrate their loving for each other every moment of the day even if it is not their mating season. The most frequent behavior demonstrated by them is feeding each other. Possibly, this behavior equals to kissing in humans. Lovebirds are also known for their intelligence and playfulness. 

So, in addition to equipping their cage with several perches and a nest box for breeding, you need to provide them with several toys for them to play with. At first, you may think that a lovebird which bites its perch, cage bars, and toys does it for nothing. In fact, it has a purpose with its bites. You need to learn why it bites. Many things about these birds will amaze you at first, however, if you love them you will learn about the things that amaze you. You can find these new lessons from other lovebirds' keepers who share their experiences on the net.

Being inexperienced in keeping lovebirds, we had to wait very long for the female of our lovebird couple to lay its first eggs. The reason was that we were unable to detect the age of the female bird when we bought the couple. We just trusted the former owner who said that we would not wait for long to see the bird breed. Now we realized that the female bird that we bought was about 4 to 5 months old at the time we bought the couple. 

And it took us more than 8 months to see it mating and laying eggs. However, we are lucky that the couple consists of a true female and a true male, so we finally could see the female lay its first eggs. Now we are waiting for the couple's first chicks to hatch. My son has already prepared a new cage for the chicks when they are able to live independent of their parents.

By Majelis Abu Hamid Majelis is a librarian, an English teacher, and a translator working at the Library of Graduate Program of Sriwijaya University (Pascasarjana Unsri), Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia.  Article Source: EzineArticles

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How to Breed FINCHES

Zebra Finch (Taeniopygia guttata) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

For most people, a finch is a little bird often seen in their gardens, sometimes colourful and sometimes not, sometimes with a pretty song and sometimes not. For the bird keeper, a finch can often be a catchall term for birds that aren't parrot family. But to be accurate, a finch is one of a number of species that are loosely related who look and sound very different. So who are finches and how do you breed them?

Estrildidae vs Fringillidae

Latin names are always hard to pronounce and difficult to remember but due to the varying local names for birds in different countries, they can often be the best way to identify a bird conclusively. For the finches, most of the species encountered in bird keeping come from two main families - the estrildidae finches and the Fringillidae finches.

Fringillidae finches are often referred to as 'true finches' or Old World finches, despite some of them being found in Hawaii and one family in the Arctic fringes. They are most common in Europe and the family name comes from the Latin name for one of their distinctive members, the Chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs). Familiar faces in this family depend on where you live but birds such as the European greenfinch, goldfinch and the siskins are all members, as well as one of the most commonly kept birds - the canary.

Estrildidae finches are often referred to as New World or Exotic Finches, though again this isn't a totally accurate name as some are found in Old World tropics areas. Most of these species are from warmer climates however so when kept in the Northern Hemisphere, often need heat to survive. Included in the family is another very commonly kept bird, the Zebra Finch, along with waxbills, Firefinches and the mannikins or munias.

Nesting choices

Birds choose their nesting location and type of nest by some internal standard that we humans can only try to anticipate - this means that there is no guarantee that a bird will choose the nest box it is 'meant' to. As a rule, however, estrildid finches tend towards closed nest boxes made from wood or plastic that either has a small hole in the front or an open section. Fringillidae finches will often make use of a nesting pan, a half cup often made from plastic or wicker, which they will add some nesting material too.

If you are breeding finches in a large cage or an aviary, they will often build their nests where they please. You can offer a host of beautiful ready-made nesting facilities and they will build a nest in the corner on a ledge or behind where the boxes stand so don't be surprised if the nest box remains empty and chicks appear from some strange location.

In breeding cages, they have less option and often an external nest is used so that room inside the cage isn't lessened by it. Nesting pans can be attached to cage bars and sometimes fake plants are used to hide it so that the bird has the illusion of being in a tree.

The breeding process

Every species of bird has its own courtship rituals, breeding preparations and specific requirements to start the process. Some, such as the Zebra finch, merely need somewhere to nest, some nesting material and a mate to get started and will breed whenever they feel like it. Others wait for a specific breeding season, which will often fall into line with the breeding season of the wild birds in the country - normally the warmest times of the year. The Canaries are an example of this as are goldfinches and greenfinches.

Eggs are usually white for the estrildid finches and shades of blue-green for the Fringillidae finches, the latter being larger as are most of the birds. Incubation periods also vary as do the number of chicks but around two to three weeks incubation is generally the norm. Once the chicks hatch, some being completely bald while others have small tufts of hair, they are blind for around a week and remain in the nest for three to four weeks. When they leave the nest or fledge, they will be dependent on their parents for a week or two more as they learn to feed themselves.

Problems

This is, of course, a simplification of the process that may not be as easy as this. Birds can abandon nests with eggs and with chicks, other factors can disturb them or the chicks die in the eggs and the birds realise this. Chicks can fall from nests or contract illnesses that mean they die at some point. But saying all of this, there is nothing better than peeking into a nest and seeing a host of new life, even if there have been hurdles along the way.

In my experience, the key to breeding finches is to let them get on with it as much as possible and think of what they would need in the wild. While most birds have never seen their native environment, their instincts are still strong. Plants, either real or fake, are a big factor, as is providing live food such as mealworms to some species. Do plenty of research before buying birds to understand what you need to provide them for them to be happy - if they aren't happy, they will never breed. And even then, things can still go wrong. But when it goes right, it is a wonderful experience and one you will quickly become addicted to.

By Angela Tempest For more information about the different species of finches and how to breed them please see my articles at https://thefinchweekly.wordpress.com/ Article Source: EzineArticles

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ECLECTUS PARROT - General Health

Eclectus Parrot (Eclectus roratus). 

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

While Eclectus parrots are very hardy birds, there are a number of health-related points you should know about to ensure the best of health and longevity of your bird.

The basic needs of Eclectus parrots apart from daily socialization with other birds and humans consists of three things: Natural foods, pure water, and plenty of exercises and mental stimulation. It has been proven again and again that this combination results in birds with the finest of health.

The best form of nutrition comes from providing a diet rich in variety, and while vitamin and mineral supplements are good to help boost nutrition, they should never be the bird's main source of nutrition. Eclectus parrots love fruits and vegetables, some favorites being mangoes, pomegranates, apples, carrots, bell peppers, lettuces and other green vegetables.

Only pure water should be provided for your Eclectus parrot since much of today's tap water has many additives and birds can be much more sensitive to these toxins than humans are. Water bowls should be cleaned and refilled with fresh water each day. Washing bowls and crocks in a mild solution of vinegar water will help eliminate potentially harmful bacteria that could make your bird sick.

Exercise is very important for your parrot to obtain optimum health. Exercise can be provided in a number of ways. Toys that provide interest involving beak, claw, and mental stimulation may be purchased at pet shops and online. A general rule of thumb is 'bigger is better' as long as the toy is safe and size-appropriate for your bird. For a hanging toy (one that clips to the inside top of the cage, or hangs from a toy stand), dimensions not exceeding 10" x 18" should be sufficient.

If you follow this basic information for your Eclectus parrot and keep yourself educated, you can help ensure your bird a long, happy, healthy life. Remember to always consult your veterinarian for any questions you may have concerning your parrot's health.

By Andrew Rocuant - Article Source: EzineArticles

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The SUN CONURE PARROT - 5 Reasons Why People Love Them

Sun Parakeet (also known as Sun Conure) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

This parrot continues to be one of the most popular choices for pet birds. And while there are many other types of birds competing for adoption, here are 5 reasons it continues to be at the top of the list for adoption.

Colorful---Like their name suggests, they add a vibrant splash of color to a room whether they are sitting still or flying about. They don't start out that way. So if you adopt a young bird, don't be disappointed with the all the green feathers you're likely to see. This is nature's way of helping them survive by allowing them to blend in more easily with the trees.

They eventually turn to a stunning array of vibrant yellows, gold, oranges, and blues. Their mature colors dazzle the eye.

Manageable Size---Most birds at maturity are right around 12 inches long and weigh a whopping 4 ounces.

Easy To Train---Known for their high level of intelligence, they learn quickly and with gentle and consistent training many can be taught to do pretty complex tricks. They love and need the attention, and the ground rules for behavior should be laid from the beginning and enforced gently and consistently adhered to by all family members.

Great Personalities---They are fun-loving and very active. However, "playing dead" has given many an owner near heart failure only to discover they are merely enjoying a snooze. They socialize well with humans, and children who know how to handle them. Interaction with children should always be supervised by a knowledgeable adult.

They can sometimes choose a favorite owner, but as long as all members of the family continue to interact, this should not cause a problem. That being said, each bird has its own personality. And what may be usual for most Conures may or may not be the same for the bird you adopt.

Reasonably Priced---Everything is relative, but as exotic birds go, Conures range in price from $250 to $350 when purchased from a reputable breeder. Pet stores are also an option, but having a veterinarian check them over before finalizing the adoption is recommended.

Adopting a rescue bird is another option, but unfortunately, many of these birds have behavioral problems of their own or some caused by previous owners. Many times they are older birds and have developed habits that are nearly impossible to change. Acquiring a bird in this way is not recommended for the first time bird owner.

More than not, the pros outweigh the cons when it comes to this parrot. And making them part of the family typically adds a lot of sunshine to life.

Description This parrot continues to be one of the most popular choices for a pet bird. And while there are many other types of birds competing for adoption, here are 5 reasons it continues to be at the top of the list for adoption.

By Debbie Davis - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Fact Sheet: UMBRELLA COCKATOO - Cacatua alba

(Original Title: Umbrella Cockatoo)

Umbrella Cockatoo (Cacatua alba) also known as the White Cockatoo.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

General Info:

The Umbrella Cockatoo, native to Indonesia, is a large, gorgeous, white parrot. On this bird, the underside of the wings and the tail have feathers of a delicate yellow color. The tail feathers are short and squared at the end. The beak and feet of this bird are a wonderful contrast to the light coloring of the feathers as they are a grayish-black color. There is a ring around the eyes that contains no feathering.

This ring is often tinged a light blue. The Female of the species often has eyes of a reddish brown color, whereas the male almost always has eyes of a very dark brown. The head holds a crest of feathers that lay flat against the head when calm and stand straight up when excited or frightened. This, in the wild, gives the bird the illusion of being larger than it really is. In this way, the bird may be able to frighten a predator or impress a prospective mate. In captivity, these feathers may play a perfect role in the comical antics shared between the bird and his or her family. It is (I say this from experience) quite amusing to see an Umbrella Cockatoo dance and "sing" with those "umbrella" feathers standing tall!

This bird is incredibly sweet and loving. It usually becomes very close to its family and will usually be especially close to one person in particular (often this person is the main caregiver of the bird).

It is important to give cockatoos a lot of attention and training. They get bored very easily and can feather pick if bored or upset.

Provide lots of toys to chew and destroy Change them often to combat boredom.

Before getting an Umbrella, decide how much attention you will be able to give on a consistent basis. Stick to a routine with the attention you give your cockatoo. Giving young bird tons of attention and then cutting off the amount of attention will cause behavior problems and can cause feather picking.

Size: The average length is somewhere around 18 inches, give or take an inch or two. The average weight is about a pound and a half.

Lifespan:

The Lifespan of the Umbrella Cockatoo is similar to that of many large parrots; about 80 years. This lifespan, as with all birds, can be lengthened or shortened, depending on the quality of care that the bird receives.

Dietary Needs:

A high-quality pellet is a good base to the diet. You may lightly mix this with some assorted parrot seed. Every day, try as hard as you can to give your bird fresh fruits and veggies (stay away from Avocados and chocolate). Great fruits and veggies include apples, cantaloupe, grapes, broccoli, peas, carrots, etc. As is true with humans, the less processing the food goes through, the better. Pellet, though processed, is great as it is nutritious and has vitamins and minerals that may be missing from one or another fruit or vegetable. But there is nothing better than a scrumptious freshly sliced apple or a delectably sweet bite from a crunchy carrot.

Cage size: 36 x 28

Train-ability:

These birds are very easily trained. All that is needed is time and patience. These birds are actually great acrobats, so it's common to teach them tricks, as well as the usual "step-up" (perch on your hand) command. Tricks include flipping the bird upside down or "dancing" to music. Teaching your bird tricks is a fantastic way to get your bird to trust you. It takes a lot of trusts for a bird to allow you to flip them upside down. I remember my family's Umbrella Cockatoo. He absolutely loved to do his tricks. It really helps them to feel like a part of the family.

Health Concerns:

Umbrella Cockatoos may be susceptible to the following:

-Psittacine beak and feather disease
-Fatty liver disease
-Obesity
-Bubblefoot
-Feather-picking
-Sarcocystis
-Cloacal Prolapse
-Poor eating habits (finicky eater)
-Miscellaneous bacterial and fungal infections

By Kimberly Santor http://www.birdcagesgalore.com http://www.yourparrotcage.com Article Source: EzineArticles

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Budgies and Cockatiels as Your Pets: The Top Tips to Know

Budgerigars (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Pet birds are a blessing for many people. They're the ideal pet because they require minimal space, no outdoor access and little work from their owner. They're also cheap to buy, cheap to look after, and an all-around low cost, low maintenance pet. They provide companionship with minimal effort, whether you live on a farm or a flat on the 13th floor of an apartment block.

Some pet birds talk, of course, making them even better company than the average pet: you couldn't teach your Labrador to say hello and ask who the pretty boy is. Teaching pet birds to speak is part of the charm of owning pets- it provides an extra level of companionship as well as a potential additional hobby. If you're looking for a pet that is low maintenance, clean around the house and takes up little space, then it's probable that owning a pet bird will suit you. And if you want your pet bird to have the potential to learn to speak, then you should be looking at budgies or cockatiels for sale in your area or online.

"Budgie" is short for budgerigar, which is also called the common pet parakeet. Native to Australia, the budgerigar, or budgie is closely related to the parrot. Budgies are hugely popular around the world as a pet, particularly in the UK, where their playful disposition, attractive markings, and ability to ape human speech. The chances are that you know somebody who owns a budgerigar, so if you're interested in getting a budgie it would be an idea to investigate further by meeting and handling a friend's pet budgie, or for visiting a pet shop that has budgies for sale in order to handle one of the birds and learn all you can before deciding whether budgies are for you or not.

Cockatiels have a huge popularity across the globe, second only to that of the budgerigar. Cockatiels are part of the cockatoo family, and it's the smallest member. Much like budgerigars, cockatiels are well known for their distinctive and attractive appearance and their ability to "speak" human words.

Similar to budgerigars, cockatiels are hugely popular because of their relatively small size and the commensurately small amount of space needed to cage them. If you're looking for cockatiels for sale then it's possible that you might find the cheapest price for cockatiels on the internet, but before making that purchase you would be well advised to research for these birds for sale elsewhere.

Visit a local pet shop that has cockatiels and speaks to the trained staff there, and learn all you can about the animal. What will they eat? How long can they be left alone? How big will their cage need to be, and what is it likely to cost? Is finding just one cockatiel going to be okay, or do they need to be kept in pairs for company? All these small factors should be considered when you're looking at cockatiels as a pet.

By Robert Ian Maranon - Article Source: EzineArticles

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CAIQUE PARROTS As Pets - 5 Reasons Caiques Make Excellent Companion Parrots

Black-headed Caiques. Pets held on hands.

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Caiques (pronounced khy-eeks) are brightly colored, energetic, and entertaining birds that are small when making comparisons in the parrot world, but have big personalities and a lot of love to give to their humans. Here are 5 reasons you can't go wrong when considering a Caique Parrot as a pet.

Colorful-The division of color on these birds is so striking it almost looks as if an artist used a paintbrush to execute it so perfectly. Black Headed Caiques (BHC) have black beaks and gray feet, shiny black heads, a festive and well-defined ban of orange around the neck area; their backs and tails are a velvety forest green, their legs, and feathers under the tail are orange, and their bellies are snowy white.

The White Bellied Caique (WBC) differs slightly in coloration with a light-colored beak, yellow head, green back, thighs, and wings with yellow coloring under the tail. It is slightly smaller and is not as common. There are no noticeable personality differences between species, and any differences are probably more attributable to the individuals.

Affordable-Prices for Caiques range between $500 and $1,000 USD with pet stores tending to be on the higher end of the scale. Check with an avian veterinarian or do a looking digging on the internet if you prefer to purchase from a breeder or adopt a slightly older bird. Learn as much as you can about the bird's history, spend time with it, and have it checked by a veterinarian before finalizing the adoption.

Great Personality-These are happy birds that, when healthy, are in constant motion. They love playing with their toys (and you should have a large variety) and with their humans. They are affectionate and tend to respond well to anyone who gives frequent attention. They need human interaction, and if you do not have the time to devote to them perhaps another pet would make a better choice. If you are thinking about having 2 to provide social interaction for each other, make sure they are compatible before bringing them home.

Whistle Happy Tunes-Even though they speech capability is not that of the African Grey, most are still able to speak with their high pitched voice and be understood. They also able to whistle and can learn songs that they hear. They tend to learn songs better if their human whistles the songs for them first.

Standard Diet-They love to eat and their food requirements are simple and uncomplicated. Daily offerings should include fresh fruits and vegetables, pasta, and table foods supplemented with a high-quality pellet mix; and fresh water should always be available. Avoid avocado, chocolate, alcohol, and caffeine as they are toxic to any bird. With proper care, these delightful little birds can live up to 30 years.

By Debbie Davis - Article Source: EzineArticles

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CHICKEN Rearing 101 - How Not to Raise Chickens

A chicken coop. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Chick: A hatchling

Capon: A castrated male used for meat. (How much could that yield?)

Pullet: A female chicken under one year old. 

Hen: A female chicken over one year of age 

Rooster: A male chicken over one year of age.

Raising Chickens for the first time can be intimidating. When I first called the Feed Shop, I was trying to sound like a pro. I asked, “Do you sell pullets?” “Yes”, the man replied. “Are they all females?” It’s been an uphill battle ever since. 

Pullet parenthood is a much of an adventure as child rearing, only with more feces per pound of body weight. However, I’ve been reading quite a bit on poultry matters. (Yes, my coolness just turned over in its grave.) So if I am correct and I am quite certain I am not, here is how chicken rearin’ goes.

Go to your local feed store and purchase $10.00 worth of chicks and $50 worth of food and supplies. Don’t forget the water dispensers. Buying the metal ones, never plastic is always advised. I have yet to see a metal one.

Next, place the chicks somewhere sheltered, like a bedroom closet. Toss in some highly flammable straw or wood shavings and promptly dangle a glowing heat lamp just above them. Note to self: Update homeowner’s policy.

For the next several weeks feed them 3 lbs of food per day and remove 4 lbs of sh*t per day from the closet. Despite all logic, the birds get bigger. As the adult feathers grow in to be sure to clip one of their wings. That is one per bird, not just one wing total. If clipping is done late chicks will nest in your toilet. This is a bad thing. 

Clipping can be accomplished by tossing your scissors and your body into the heaping mound of chicks, poop, and straw. Grab a wiggling screeching bird from the bile pile. Restrain it with one hand. Stretch the wing out with your second hand. Clip off 50% of the wings outer ten feathers with your third hand. 

As the birds grow adjust the heat light temperature down by one degree per day. No, this is not actually possible. That’s not my point. You start at 100 degrees for hatchlings then continue down by one degree per day until your bedroom is a minimum of 3 degrees cooler than the spring blizzard outside your window.

Once you have frozen your ear to your semi-cannibalistic down pillow and the chicks have grown their adult feathers, they can be moved outside to the coop. I estimate the initial closet rearing stage to have taken five years. 

Before the move, experience the Joy of Wing Clipping one more time. Feather clipping never works the first time. No one knows why. Still, after all the hassle you probably don’t want them to fly the coop in under sixty seconds. Of course, if you’re like me, by this time you may be inclined to pack them each a lunch and leave a stack of Greyhound tickets by the open coop gate. 

Regarding habitat construction: Henhouses and chicken coops are a competitive art form. There is a myriad of websites showing off architectural designs from Chicken Chateaus to Bird Bordellos. The meticulous craftsmanship makes my own home look like – well – like a chicken coop. 

Always fashionable, I went with a shabby chic motif for my coop. The nesting boxes are an eclectic mix of stolen milk crates affixed to the wall by anything in arms reach. As for the coop itself, there is a gift for tight chicken wire, which eludes me. Quite frankly, my first attempt at a coop looks like Dr. Seuss dropped a hit of acid, blasted some Jefferson Starship and rolled around on the wire with every Who in Whoville. I think I’ll keep it. 

Inferior design aside, I ultimately learned a thing or two. The nesting boxes are supposed to be up off the ground. That is correct. For those of you keeping score you just spent two weeks cutting back the bird's flight feathers only to hang their houses in the sky. It’s just sick. 

Higher than the nest boxes, you are to build a roost. This is where the birds crap at night so they do not crap on your breakfast eggs. Of course, the roost is usually OVER the nesting boxes, so whatever you do, don’t use those perforated plastic milk crates. 

For young birds maintain a heat light in the hen house. Then on cooler nights, an animal with a brain the size of a bulimic toenail clipping will make the conscious decision to forgo your nest boxes, bypass the instinctual roost and leap into a tanning bed.

And finally, there is the feed regime. I asked several experts a dread upon feeding as well. Make sure to give your chickens, starter formula, mash, growth formula, start & grow, brood formula, grit, no grit, scraps, no scraps, goat placenta, nothing suggested on the internet, Terramycin, no antibiotics, medicated starter, non-medicated starter and never ever switch in-between. 

I may not be Queen of the Coop yet, but I’m working on it. Though I am still a zoologist and I still know Birds 101. Here are two myths I can help with. First, you do not need a rooster to get eggs. Most folk, especially those who have never owned chickens, will advise you on chickens. Each will insist you need a rooster for a while to do his manly duties, then you can slip him in the pot. As appealing as this concept is, your pot is a separate issue. 

Roosters are only needed to make fertile eggs. Hens are all that is needed to make breakfast eggs. Fertile eggs are just peachy if raising chicks was such a joy the first time you want to repeat the whole freakin’ process. In addition, there is always the risk of breaking a fertilized egg open and finding a 50% formed chick fetus hitting your hot skillet. Yum! Years of therapy will follow.

To keep it straight in your mind consider this: You are going about your life. Suddenly massive balls of calcium start stacking up inside your abdomen. Are you going to hold on to them just because you have not had sex lately? 

The second bird myth is totally unrelated so I thought I would mention it. Penguins occur in nature from the Equator on Southward. That is down to Antarctica, not the Arctic! No, they do not hang out with Polar Bears who live in the Arctic. No, you did not see them when you worked in Alaska, in the Arctic. Those were puffins. No, I am not sorry you look stupid to all those folks you told penguin tales too. 

Yes, some penguin species even reside on the Galapagos Islands at the equator (Cold weather would kill them), not floating around on icebergs - and not in the Arctic! Yes, I realize my eggs are not all in one basket. Delusional, close-minded people who insist you need a rooster to fertilize your penguin eggs so polar bears won’t lose their food supply drove me crazy! 

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Food for BUDGIES

Two Budgerigars (also known as Budgies) in love(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The staple food of budgies in the wild is usually grass seeds. However, in captivity budgies thrive well on a diet of seeds, millets, whole grain bread and sprouts. A varied diet provides all essential nutrients and keeps the budgies well nourished. A varied diet also prevents obesity as opposed to a diet exclusively on seeds.

Place the seeds in a flat dish so that it is easy for removal The feeding can be done once a day. Seeds which have not been eaten by the budgies can be reused. Just blow over the feeding dish to remove the husk and then top up the remaining seeds.

Budgies also love coriander leaves and greens. Beetroot, spinach, lettuce, and cabbage may also be given. Put these leaves into the cage and watch the budgies tear them up into little bits as they eat them. Give only fresh leaves as old or refrigerated leaves may cause digestion problems for the budgies. Remove any leftovers from the cage.

Foods NOT to be given

Do not give Avocados, chocolates, apple seeds, coffee, tea, tomato leaves, peach seeds, eggplant, peanuts, etc to your budgies as these contain substances which can prove to be toxic to the budgies.

Water for Budgies

Budgies need fresh water every day. Keep a constant supply of water in the cage. Replace the water if it has become soiled. Special water dispensers suited for birds are available. This prevents the water from getting soiled.

In the wild, budgies descend in large groups over water bodies. They love to bathe. You can keep a shallow bowl of water and watch them bathe. Bathing water can be provided twice a week.

CuttleBone for Budgies

Budgies, especially female, need calcium as they lay eggs. Calcium deficiency can cause a dangerous condition called egg binding in female budgies where the eggs, having soft shells due to lack of calcium, get stuck in the vent, causing death.

Hence, it is vital that the diet the budgies eat contains a lot of calcium. The Cuttlebone is a common source of calcium. Cuttlebone, as the name suggests, comes from the cuttlefish. It is available in all pet stores. The cuttlebone may be placed inside the cage. Some pet owners prefer to crush the cuttlebone into powder and add to the budgies' food.

You can also provide other sources of calcium for your budgies such as broken eggshells and commercial calcium supplements which are available in the market.

Another alternative would be to use mineral blocks. Mineral blocks are supplements which contain calcium as well as other ingredients such as phosphorus, zinc, Iron, Magnesium, etc necessary for the health of the budgie.

By Aust Smith The site providing information on caring for a pet and getting started with a hobby of your choice. - http://www.petsnhobbies.com Article Source: EzineArticles

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