Tuesday, October 30, 2018

In Awe of MACAWS

blue-and-gold macaw
Photo  by HolleyandChris 
Macaws are one of the most familiar parrots. Even people who don't particularly know much about parrots will recognize these majestic birds. They have a very distinctive look--large beak, long tail, bare face patch--with a show-off personality that makes them popular in shows at zoos and theme parks. They're all over the place in advertising, especially if the ad has a tropical theme.

One of the most recognized is probably the scarlet macaw. But macaws have far more to offer than just good looks and exotic flair. They're an intelligent pet that rewards the right type of owner with years of affectionate and fun-loving companionship, sometimes compared to dogs in terms of how well they respond to their people.

No one should get a parrot without research and planning, and this is especially true for the larger species of macaws. Their caging needs alone make it out of the question for anyone with little space, and along with that big body comes a big attitude. Inexperienced parrot owners may not be prepared for a sassy, brassy macaw. And if you're looking for a parrot on the quiet side, forget it. Macaws' voices match their personalities: bold and almost always ready to go. There still may be some hope for you if you like what macaws have to offer but aren't able to accommodate such a large parrot. One of the smaller varieties might fit your lifestyle. You'd still need to know what you're getting into, though. Even the mini macaws require an owner that's dedicated and willing to establish rules and limits. A macaw of any size is not what I would consider a beginner's parrot.

One challenge macaw owners can face is getting over any nervousness about those large beaks. Capable of snapping a broomstick, a macaw that means business isn't a bird you want to push around. They learn when they're young that hissing, lunging and brandishing that beak are effective ways to get what they want. But most macaws, as long as they've been treated kindly by people, are actually pretty gentle and easy going. They will rarely bite as hard as they're able. In the years that I've dealt with macaws of all ages and sizes, I've never received a serious bite, only some pinches that hurt at the time but didn't do any real harm. I've been screamed at loudly, though, which isn't pleasant and can be somewhat intimidating in its own way. If someone is working with a macaw and is overly hesitant, the bird is going to have that person's number right away. A calm, confident person tends to do much better with a macaw. They don't respond well to bullying, but they do need guidance and kind authority.

Treated with respect and given the right environment, which includes plenty of out-of-the-cage exercises and mental stimulation, a macaw can be a joy. They like to be involved in whatever the family is doing and thrive when they can have the stage all to themselves. They're one of the major "hams" of the parrot world, so talking, singing and trick training are fine activities to do with a macaw. While some individuals don't mind just sitting around and may be able to spend a considerable amount of time on a play gym, a macaw will often want to investigate things, wandering around on the floor and climbing up onto anything he can get to. Supervision is important. They aren't the type of pet you'll want to let come and go at will from his cage. Doing so can lead to behavior problems, such as the bird becoming overly pushy and willful, but it's also likely to result in lots of chewed-up items around the house. Remember, think "guidance" and "limits". Give them more chances to be good than to misbehave.



Behavior problems in macaws can range from minor, hormonal moodiness to all-out mayhem with biting and excessive screaming. Rescued macaws that were mistreated, ignored, or just not well-trained seem to have the most issues, but even these guys can come around in time. Macaws are very social and will usually want to have a relationship with the people around them. They've got big hearts to go along with their big beaks.

    This article was co-authored by Chet Womach and Kim Bear. Kim is a parrot behavioral specialist who has helped people with their macaw parrot all over the world.
    Article Source: GoArticles


Monday, October 29, 2018

Suggestions for Choosing Your New Small PET BIRD or Birds - A Few Things to Consider

English: Budgerigars, Melopsittacus undulatus....

When selecting what type of new pet bird would best suit your circumstances and desire there are a few things you must consider before making that all-important purchase.

During my 10 years experience, I have only dealt with small pet birds so unfortunately for some my knowledge is restricted to these only.

Firstly you must decide what type of bird you would like and if it would be suitable to your circumstances, then you need to be sure you have a home set up for your new feathered friend before you bring it home.

Below is a brief but hopefully informative list of the most popular small pet birds and the ups and downs of their upkeep:

Budgie

From the parrot family and originally from Australia the budgie is often called 'parakeet' or 'long-tailed parakeet', the budgerigar is without a doubt the most popular pet bird in the Western world and with good reason; small enough to handle, easy to tame, inexpensive, a startling array of different colours, can be kept on its own, very friendly (if tame), a chatterer, minimum requirement to keep in good health, easy to breed (if you want to), usually mixes well with other small birds (budgies and other species). Ideal in a cage or aviary.

However budgies can inflict a nasty wound if they bite you whilst handling (rarely a problem if they're tame, but they can draw blood if they sink their beak in), they can also be rather destructive (they love to chew), and budgerigars can be very territorial during breeding (especially if kept with other birds).

In the wild budgies live in large flocks and so need plenty of interaction to save them from becoming bored. They, therefore, need to be kept busy with lots of toys and your attention, or alternatively kept with another of their kind, so as they can interact with each other.

[Picture Legend: Budgerigars, Melopsittacus undulatus. Three on a perch. The bird on the left is an 'English Budgie', the result of generations of selective breeding by humans for desirable traits including size - whilst the other two birds exhibit the body form (but not plumage colour) of wild Budgerigars and are sometimes known as 'wild-type', or 'American Parakeets' in aviculture. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)]

English: Cockatiel, Nymphicus hollandicus and ...
Cockatiel, Nymphicus hollandicus
and Budgerigar, Melopsittacus undulatus
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)

Cockatiel

Another Australian bird often called 'tiel' for short, these small parrots are also very popular as pets, due to their calm nature and unique character. A little bigger than the budgie so more space is required (a bigger cage for example), the cockatiel also lives in large flocks in the wild so again interaction and toys are a must.

They can be kept their own or in pairs or small groups, and easy to keep. Ideal as a cage or aviary bird, and because of their calm nature the cockatiel will normally mix well with other small birds of a different species (cockatiels are often kept in the same aviary as budgerigars and finches with rarely any problems). They can learn to mimic other sounds with patience and determination and are easy to tame.

However they can also inflict a rather nasty wound if they choose to bite (probably a worse injury than the budgie due to their larger beaks, but again not usually a problem when tame). Ideally, if you want to breed your cockatiels they need to be on their own as a breeding pair with no other birds. These birds can also be very destructive due to their desire to have a chew at almost anything, but they are easily startled (so no sudden loud noises or sudden bright lights please!).

Taeniopygia guttata (Zebra finch)
Taeniopygia guttata (Zebra finch)
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Finches

Somewhat smaller than budgerigars and cockatiels, and not part of the parrot family, the most popular types of finch are again very popular for good reason: very easy to keep, good-natured, small and compact, extremely active, cute, prolific breeders, usually low priced, little space required for good upkeep (the perfect pet bird for apartments, flats and small living areas).

There are many types of finch available on the pet bird market but the most popular are: zebra finch, society finch (Bengalese finch), Gouldian finch, java finch (java sparrow), the java being the largest of the four just mentioned (slightly smaller than the budgie).

All of these can be accommodated in a cage or aviary and also usually mix well with other species (I keep budgerigars, cockatiels, zebra finches, Bengalese finches, and javas together in a large outdoor aviary and very rarely have any problems).

As for the initial cost of these little characters the zebra finches usually come out the least expensive (from 3 to 8 each, often with a good deal for a pair), next would be the society finches (from 5 to 10 each, again with a better deal for a pair), then the javas (8 to 15 each, buy two for a better price), and the Gouldian finches coming out on top (the cheapest I've seen there is about 20 each right up to 60 - sometimes more - but a deal on more than one can usually be arranged). The reason for the bigger price for the Gouldians is because of their great colouring and rarity, a desirable bird that people will often pay handsomely for.

However, finches do not always take readily to handling and must be kept in groups of 2 or more.
At least due to their small size, a bite is not likely to bother you a great deal.

Others

There are many other types of birds available but the price is usually higher as they are not as common.

Many other types of parakeets, however, are still rather popular - ringneck parakeet, grass parakeet (Bourke, turquoise, elegant, alexandrine), kakariki (New-Zealand parakeet), rosella, lovebird to name but a few.

The upkeep however for all small pet birds is basically the same.

Always remember to shop around for the best deal and if possible buy your new bird or birds from a breeder or hobbyist rather than a pet shop.



A note on accommodation for your new pet bird.

Most small pet birds will live happily in an aviary, and this is the nearest they are likely to get to their natural environment, but in an aviary, your birds will become semi-wild and may not take very well to handling or one on one interaction.

Caged birds, however, are a different matter, and can often be tame and friendly towards us humans. Make sure that if you plan to keep your bird or birds in a cage then go for the biggest you can afford (within reason, of course, no good putting zebra finches in a large wide barred parrot cage); your bird needs to be able to stretch its wings to their fullest extent and still have some room left.

Even in an aviary parrot type species will spend more time climbing than flying, whereas finches would rather fly than climb.




Saturday, October 27, 2018

Busy Beak are Happy beaks

A pet Monk Parakeet (also known as the Quaker ...
A pet Monk Parakeet (also known as the Quaker Parrot) with a colourful rope and toys. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Good toys have different shapes and textures for the bird to explore and destroy.  At least three toys should make a bird work for food. Working toys are toys that make them work for their treats or favored foods. Parrots in the wild will spend the majority of their waking hours, hunting and foraging. Toys stimulate their mind and help replicate actions they would execute in the wild. Proper toys and placement enhance a Psittacines life in captivity.

Parrots think they’re working for food while avicultural outsider sees birds playing with toys as birds; playing with bird toys. Your companion parrot is always thinking, and since nothing has changed in their minds, playing with toys is their job. It’s what Mother Nature gave them to survive, this need to forage. If you provide no means of foraging, your bird will seek other avenues. It may be furniture or personal effects. Usually, because they are easy and plentiful targets. It’s important to encourage your companion parrot to work for food because it’s a natural behavior. 

Three or four toys should be made of soft wood. Softwood allows you to push your fingernail in forming an indent.  

The next toys depend on the bird. Large birds like macaws and Cockatoos may have a huge appetite. Introduce hardwood toys into cages and perhaps toys with hard plastics so they can spend more time on the various pieces. Toys may be strung together with rope, leather, chain or a combination of materials.

The balance of toys should be easily shredded. Toys may be store bought or home made. Parrot toy parts are available and help keep toy making economical.  Softwood, paper, leather and other textures are important for the bird to explore and destroy

Introduce pieces of food like broccoli or corn, using one of many commercially available or home made toy holders. The food on the toy holder rewards them for playing.

The more textures, shapes, sizes and colors the better. Diversity is important because in the wild your birds eat a diverse diet. An eclectic selection of toys helps maintain your feathered companions interest.

 Watch a bird in its natural habitat and you’ll see them chewing soft bark and hard tree trunks. Toys made from compressed palm leaf or treated Yucca introduces hours of “pecking pleasure” Interactive toys made from Plexiglas are very effective at reducing birdie boredom.

The majority of toys should hang or be placed in the upper third of the cage. Introduce a few more to the middle third (without hampering access to food dishes) around a perch made from soft wood, comfortable to grasp depending on the size of the bird’s feet. The bottom third of the cage should remain relatively uncluttered to allow the bird to walk freely.



Spot-check toys and perches on a daily basis looking for frayed or sharp edges that may potentially harm your bird.

The more you change the toy and perch arrangement, the more you challenge your companion parrot. It helps them socialize and helps avoids “toy-phobia” 
Parrots can develop phobic reactions to new people, new furniture, and even new birds.

Toys from household items

Cornhusks
Adding machine tape
Toilet paper roll
Nuts hidden in nested paper cups
Phonebook slipped through cage bars
Wrapped straws – cable tied
Fortune cookies
Saltine cracker packet
Junk mail
Cotton swabs
Doggie rawhide 
Shoelaces strung with beads or Cheerios 
Branches with leaves           
Breakfast-food bowl with newspaper taped to the top



Friday, October 26, 2018

Are you sure that you need a BUDGIE?

Photo: Pixabay
Before buying a budgie think about the following questions :

One or two budgies? 

Budgies in natural conditions live in flights and it will be boring for one budgie to live in a cage. His friend, who can replace the company of other bird, could be a person but only in the case that he spends lots of time with his feathery friend, speaks to it and lets it fly. If the bird is alone most of the time it becomes sad and very often gets sick. If you are unable to spare enough time for the budgie or if the family is absent for a long time, it is better to start breeding a couple of birds. Many people think that when living in a couple budgies do not become domestic because they do not need human presence anymore. But if your patient enough and if you have enough time you may breed budgies separately while they grow up until they become domestic and start perching on your arm and only then to bring them together into one cage.

Will anybody help you? 

It can happen that on some days you can be very busy and to be unable to care about the birds It is very important someone in the family to take care of them. And will it be possible for the bird to move around your home?

Home budgies do not need to look for food alone and to fly kilometers away but they also have to “exercise” their wings. These feathery ones will not be vital and healthy if they do not fly daily around the room at least for an hour. But is very difficult to keep the cage in one room with a cat–it instinctively chases birds and the is no trouble in catching the flying budgie. But an obedient dog very soon realizes that the bird is a member of the family and that it must not be disturbed.



Thursday, October 25, 2018

LOVEBIRD Care - Few Crucial Tips to Keep Your LOVEBIRD Healthy For Years

Zsuzsi (IMG_2281)
Photo  by B├ękiPe 
Lovebird's care isn't a simple achievement. You must keep in mind the things they require, to keep them healthy and in good condition. They deserve to be supplied with correct nourishment, with the most healthy foods, cages, toys, and allocated special time to bond with their owner.

They adore interaction for their socially active creatures. Without social interaction either with a human or another Lovebird or not having diversions, Lovebirds can be bored and stressed that might result in a behavior problem. Certainly, you as a Lovebird owner do not want that. This makes an important addition to your Lovebirds care list.

Do not get inexpensive feed for your Lovebirds. This may be listed in your Lovebirds care list, inexpensive, cheap seed mix or pellets regularly do not have enough nutrients your Lovebirds need to keep them healthy, but they can also be used, if and only if you provide fresh foods for your Lovebirds. Try and give them fresh foods at least 3 to 4 times per week.

Lovebirds love fruits except for avocados, don't give them those for they're deadly - add this to your Lovebird's care list. Just ensure you have washed it from the insecticides and pesticides utilized by plant growers. Another addition in your Lovebirds care list - remove all uneaten fresh foods from your Lovebirds cage before they're ruined.

Another addition to your Lovebird's care list is that you want to supply a dish of water for your Lovebirds, they're dependent on water, and they adore to wash. This also helps keep their feathers in good shape. You must also take into account, the weather, Lovebirds shouldn't be exposed to freezing conditions (add to your Lovebird's care list).

There are lots of perils coaxing around the corner you may not know. A number of them that you may want to put in your Lovebird's care list are blue-green algae, chocolate, dog and cat spit, household cleaners and detergents and Teflon. When Teflon is heated and gets too hot it gives off smoke that is deadly to your Lovebirds.

It's also best to get a good vet before any bad conditions arise. You can try for suggestions, because there are vets who see few cases of bird health issues, and don't have much experience in diagnosing and treating them.


One thing more you need to put on the list for your Lovebird care is the cage. Plenty of things can become a difficulty if you do not have the right cage for your Lovebirds and the right place to put it. You must ensure the cage is of suitable size. Lovebirds like to fly around, so you should confirm it is sufficiently big enough for them to be in a position to enjoy flying. Also, you need to place your Lovebirds cage in a spot where there's good daylight. Lovebirds like to get warm under the sun after showering.

Having this information about Lovebird care, you know how the how's and why's of keeping a Lovebird. Good luck.



Wednesday, October 24, 2018

Rainbow LORIKEET - Trichoglossus haematodus

Rainbow Lorikeet- Trichoglossus haematodus



Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Make An Easy Coffee Can BIRD HOUSE

Several bird houses
Several birdhouses (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
When it comes to birds, avid watchers know that you can never have too many birdhouses in your yard. Birds appreciate these items during the nesting and migration seasons, which can just about cover the entire year in some areas. So, if you are trying to attract birds to your yard, you should certainly create a place that is inviting and appealing to them. 

They will reward you with their presence and you can enjoy gazing at some of the most beautiful items nature has to offer. If you are interested in birdhouses, you may want to consider making your own. You can create interesting birdhouses in no time, using simple household items. Use these tips to create an easy coffee can birdhouse.

To begin you will need to collect an empty coffee can, super glue, paint, a small wooden peg, fishing line, a permanent marker, and a utility knife. Begin by washing the coffee can with soap and water. Be sure to rinse it well. If there is much residue in the can, birds will not want to stay in it. Dry the can and replace its lid. Next, trace a circle onto one side of the can, near the bottom. This will be the entrance for the birds. The circle will need to be large enough for birds to enter, but not too large. Some birds prefer the entrances to be smaller because it allows them safety from larger preying birds. 

After tracing the hole, use the utility knife to carefully cut the entrance for the birds. Next, glue the wooden peg just below the entrance. This will be a great place for birds to perch, especially if a bird has babies inside and is trying to feed them. Be sure to allow enough area for the entrance however as well. 

Multiple nest box and feeding station
Multiple nest box and feeding station
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
After the glue dries completely, you can move on to decorating your home. Using paint or anything else you would like, you can make this type of birdhouse into anything you would like. Be sure to remove the label if you haven’t already done so. You can paint the can to honor your favorite football team or paint lovely flowers on the side to match your garden. The possibilities are unlimited. This is a great time to get little ones involved as well. Children love to help with crafts and painting a birdhouse is one that children of all ages can participate in. 

After the paint and decorations dry, you can poke a small hole in the back of the can and loop your fishing line through. This will allow you to hang the house on a tree. You can also choose to bolt the house to the tree. To do this, remove the coffee can’s lid and place the bolt through the inside back of the can. This simple craft is a wonderful way to attract birds to your yard for you and your family to enjoy all year long.


Monday, October 22, 2018

Information About FINCHES

House Finch
Photo   by likeaduck 
A finch makes an ideal pet for every bird enthusiast because of their vibrant colors and beautiful singing voice. But one must also know several concerns in having finches for a pet.

Zebra and society finch are among the popular finches. They have bright beautiful colors and some even sing beautifully. The Lady Gouldian, on the other hand, is best to have if they are on their full-color as they are hardier while youngsters are delicate and cannot acclimatize easily to changes.

Some variety of finches that are best for a more experienced bird enthusiasts are the cordons, gold-breasted, strawberry, fire, orange cheek, star, tricolor nuns, read ear, cutthroat, parson's, shaft-tail, spice, lavender, owl, silverbill, bronze wing, cherry headed, European goldfinch, weavers, blue-headed parrot finch, and red-headed parrot finch where most of these species need more than a commercial seed in their diet.

The sweet sound that a finch makes can be attributed to the male finches. The song that the male finch makes is actually a sound to attract females during the mating season. The European gold, green singer and grey singer finches are the best singing finches. Finches do not need much attention that makes them a perfect pet for people with limited space and time.

Finches are social but only to birds and not to humans that they must be bought in pairs. Keeping several varieties of finches in one cage could make them squabble especially during mating season. You must also take into consideration the size of the finches you are going to put in one cage. It is better to have a pair of finches of the same size so that one would not get intimated if the other finch is larger.


It is important for the finch to have a flying space inside their cage as flying is the form of exercise, that will keep them healthy and active.

Livefood like mealworms and some leafy greens must be added to the diet of finches aside from their regular seeds. You can also put cuttlebone or calcium block inside their cage to ensure that they are getting enough calcium.



Saturday, October 20, 2018

Sick PET BIRD Care

English: Bird ringing (bird banding) sequence,...
Determining the bird's characteristics like sex, age, and physical condition
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
The article is directed specifically to pet bird owners and is intended for their use as a basic how-to guide on caring properly for a sick or injured bird. Please always follow the advice of your veterinarian & do not use this article as a means of avoiding a hands-on veterinary examination. The key idea of this article is to reduce any and all stress to your recovering bird.

1. WARMTH:
Ill birds will sit with their feathers fluffed in an attempt to conserve heat. The effort to conserve heat places an additional burden on the already debilitated bird. Your veterinarian will determine if your bird requires hospitalization, but if home care is acceptable, I recommend creating a tent to keep your bird warm. A bird's natural temperature is much higher than ours at anywhere from 103F-106F. Therefore, what often feels warm to us can be chilly to them and this is particularly true in sick birds. A simple way of providing heat is to cover 1/2 of the cage with a blanket and place a heat lamp on the other side as a heat source. Generally speaking, we keep our sick birds at environmental temperatures ranging from 85-95F. This will vary greatly with the individual bird so it is important to monitor your pet to ensure that you are providing the correct temperature and of course seek your veterinarian's advice.

A bird that is too hot will have very sleek feathers held tightly to the body, will hold its wings (shoulders) slightly away from its body and may pant. If you see any of these signs your bird is much too warm and the environmental temperature should be reduced accordingly. For night warmth I recommend using a red light. Ill birds, just like ill people, require rest and if kept under bright lights all night they will become sleep deprived. Also, during the day it is important to provide light so that they may be encouraged to eat and can be monitored. Therefore, the entire cage should never be covered during the day. I don't recommend heating pads because it is very difficult to regulate the temperature. If a bird is not perching and sitting directly on the pad they can easily become overheated or burned. And in my experience baby birds that are raised on heating pad quickly become dehydrated and again are subject to burns.

2. STRESS:
Debilitated birds must be kept in a stress-free situation. Often what appears normal to us can cause stress in our feathered friends. I suggest taking a close look at your bird's environment with a critical eye to determine what may be stress factors. Some common ones include, the bird in the center of house traffic with no chance to rest, cigarette smoke or aerosols in the birds environment, lack of darkness/sleep time at night, other pets, small children, too much visual stimuli (cage directly in front of a window), competition from cage mates, too much handling, poor nutrition and temperature extremes (such as birds kept in kitchens). I recommend that sick birds be left in their cage and allowed to calmly recuperate. 

Think of this as bed rest for your pet! Too much handling can stress the bird and will require the bird to use additional calories. If the bird is housed with other birds, it is usually best to remove the bird to a single cage. Some birds can become too stressed when separated from the colony so you should seek your veterinarian's advice on how to cage your sick pet. However, generally removing the bird from the group will reduce the stress of competition for nutrition and allow for medicating easily and better monitoring. Of course, if an infectious disease is suspected, then the pet must be moved into an isolation cage and at least a separate room - preferably a separate house with no other birds.

3. NUTRITION:
If your doctor made dietary recommendations, now is not the time to implement change. Changes in the type of diet will cause enormous stress to your bird and should be started when the bird has recovered. Always discuss how and when to made dietary changes with your pet's doctor. Generally, I recommend offering all the bird's favorite foods during illness because many ill birds become anorexic and can be lost due to starvation. If your bird is normally a seedeater but not currently eating, try placing millets sprays in the cage which most birds enjoy. The important thing to remember is that it has taken months to years for the bird to become malnourished and this cannot be corrected in a day or a week. Slow changes are essential for the ill bird. If you are unable to get your pet to eat he/she should be hospitalized for gavage feeding and further care. Birds have a high metabolic rate and can quickly starve.



Thus, a pet bird that stops eating should always be assumed to be critically ill, certainly, the potential for fatality is present. Lastly, if your bird is a hand reared baby and is not eating due to illness, you can often revert them back to hand feeding (syringe feeding) during the convalescent period. A good hand rearing formula should be used. The formula should be mixed with hot water as directed on the bag and offered to the bird. Do not force the bird to eat. Pet owners should never force feed their birds. A bird can easily aspirate (inhale food) and develop pneumonia and force-feeding causes enormous stress to your bird. Reverting to hand feeding is only of use for those birds that willingly accept feeding on the syringe. Also, if hand feeding, the formula must be warmed correctly (follow the advice on the formula bag and that of your veterinarian) to avoid food burns from too hot formula and crop stasis from formula fed at too cool a temperature.

4. MEDICATING:

Routes:

1. Injectable,
2. In water or Food,
3. Topical,
4. Oral

I prefer not to medicate in the pet's water or the food. Medication is given in this way often causes a change in the taste and can potentially cause the bird to reduce their food and water intake. Also, when medication is placed in the food or water it is very difficult to determine how much of the medication the pet has actually ingested. Thus, in my opinion, the best routes are injectable and oral. Topical medication often is not of use to the pet and will cause oily feathers.

Prior to taking your bird home, you should be shown how to appropriately medicate your bird by the doctor or technician. Briefly, the patient should be held in an upright position and the syringe containing the medication should be gently introduced from the left side of the mouth and angled to the right side. Most birds will attempt to bite the syringe allowing it to be easily introduced into the oral cavity. Slowly depress the plunger on the syringe to dispense the medication into the lower portion of the beak. If the pet struggles while medicating, stop for a few moments and then try again. You should advise your veterinarian if you are unable to medicate your pet. Medication can be mixed with a flavoring agent (FlavorX), which will help to reduce some resistance. Occasionally, depending on the reason for treatment, your doctor may be able to give a long-acting injection in place of oral medication but this has limited uses and thus is not available for every pet.

5. FOLLOW-UP EXAMINATIONS: 
As soon as the illness was detected in your pet he/she was taken to the veterinarian for a thorough physical examination and diagnostic workup including laboratory testing. Unfortunately, many people will see that their pet is improving and don't realize that a follow-up exam is necessary. I always suggest rechecking the patient at variable intervals depending on the state of debilitation. The recheck exam allows your doctor to assess the patient's response to treatment and the owner's compliance with instructions. Many times in the course of treating an exotic pet the treatment must be altered somewhat to ensure the best response. These rechecks are also used as a way of reinforcing the changes needed for the bird to remain healthy. Additionally, lab values can be rechecked to ensure that the patient is truly recovering and not just feeling well enough again to resume hiding any weakness. I can't stress the importance of this follow up enough, it is extremely important to the health of your bird.

Most importantly, follow the advice of your veterinarian and ask questions to ensure that you completely understand what is needed of you to get your pet back to health.

    By Jill Patt
    Jill M. Patt, DVM - Medical Director at Alta Mesa Animal Hospital
    Providing Small & Exotic Animal Pet Care in the Valley of the Sun (Mesa, AZ)
    http://www.littlecrittersvet.com - Pet Care Information & Photo Gallery
    Visit littlecrittersvet for extensive information on small & exotic pet care with > 1000 photos of animals from informative to just darn cute.
    http://www.altamesaanimalhospital.com - Alta Mesa Animal Hospital 6704 E. Brown Rd. Mesa, AZ 85205 (480) 981-1244
    Article Source: EzineArticles


Friday, October 19, 2018

Hot Birds Need A BIRD BATH

English: A fountain on a bird bath, with flowers.
A fountain on a birdbath, with flowers. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Just like people, birds get hot and thirsty. Especially during the blistering summer months, your favorite flying friends may be roasting in their feathers. Help out your local birds and provide them with a shady spot to splash, play, bathe, and drink—a bird bath! Especially in areas that lack natural sources of water, such as springs, ponds, lakes, or streams, bird baths are essential for the health and happiness of birds in your area. In addition to helping out your fine feathered friends, a birdbath will attract all sorts of birds to your yard and allow you and your family to enjoy their company.

Think of it: if you were a bird, where would you want to splash about? Would you choose a muddy, stinky puddle or a clean, fresh bird bath? The choice is not just obvious to humans, but birds have a distinct preference. Once you have decided to lend a helping hand to your local birds, make the trek to find a bath that fits into your style and design of your yard. There are tons of options, from baths that borrow style from the white marble columns of ancient Greece to fantastically modern creations that could double for an avant-garde statue.

After you have brought your birdbath home, find a place to set up the bath well within sight of your outdoor and indoor spaces. Consider installing a birdbath near your porch, patio, deck, or house’s windows so that you can enjoy the birds from anywhere in your home. Fill the birdbath with cool, clean water and watch the birds flock around your bath.

In order to draw more birds, consider using a fountain birdbath instead of a traditional birdbath that holds still water. Birds love the sound of running water and prefer fountain bird baths dramatically over still bird baths. If a fountain bird bath is out of your budget, consider creating your own fountain. Something as simple as a bucket with a hole drilled in the bottom positioned over the top of your existing birdbath works just as great as expensive fountain bird bath, although it may not be quite as aesthetically pleasing.

Keep in mind that birds need bird baths year round, especially in some parts of the country that seem to be out of the grip of Jack Frost. Instead of putting your birdbath inside during the winter, purchase a model that can remain outdoors for the entire year. Heated bird baths work to ensure that ice does not form in the bath, but does not produce a birdie hot tub, so birds will keep coming to your yard regardless of the weather.


Thursday, October 18, 2018

Raising Chicks before CHICKENS

This is a photograph of three chicks hatching ...
This is a photograph of three chicks hatching in an incubator.
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
There are two types of chicks to raise: the ones you practically took care of from the moment they were hatched and the ones that you bought from hatcheries which are already taken care of and just needs further nourishing. Basing from the two choices, there are also two ways of properly raising the chicks before becoming the perfect chickens.

Chicks hatched from your own poultry’s eggs basically need 4 things: comfort, warmth, food and water. Comfort can be based on your own personal touch and how you hold the chicks. Warmth is taken from the mother or if you plan to separate the chicks on an early stage, an incubator or what others call as a heat lamp is essential. Usually, the incubator is composed of two or three light bulbs depending on the number of chicks that have hatched.

The very first thing to do is fix the place where you will put your hatchlings – the brooder. It must have a temperature that is neither too cold nor too hot. Either of the two extremes will contribute severe negative conditions to the chicks. Your incubator must have a temperature that’s 90-95 degrees. If you have settled with the 95-degree heat, maintain it until the end of the first week. Your temperature must decrease every week by 5 degrees until you reach the 6th week.

The floor of your chick’s pad must be made of cardboard or piles of old newspapers. This can be used as an insulator for keeping the temperature in the room in proper condition.

Have the drinking station of your chicks always cleaned? Aside from that, the proper way of refreshing your chicks is to give them boiled water. Something as little as these creatures are too vulnerable to germs. Their baby immune systems aren’t that mature to fight away bacteria and harmful microorganisms that may invade their body. Better safe than sorry. Grain coffee is also an alternative but will cost you. You have to make sure that what you give them is not that hot to handle.

To serve their drink, pour the contents in a jug, turn it upside down standing on a dish. The leak coming from the inverted jug is sufficient enough to accommodate their need for nourishment.

Chicks are a little particular with their food. They don’t eat anything “old”. They want their food dripping with freshness. Initially, you could give them milled oats. You could include bits of boiled eggs into the milled oats. If you think to give them that is a bit too mushy, you are welcome to go to feed stores for poultry raising. Some who are fond of feeding anything to their chicks have this intuition to feed them bread. Which is totally wrong. Because feeding them bread is a sin. This can kill them.



You could also include lettuce cuts into the diet. Squeamish or not, you have to provide their favorite menu – bugs and grubs. They eat these little wiggly things and gobble them up so fast.

Just don’t make any mistake of giving these to newly hatched chicks.

You have to be very particular of the space that you have provided for the young ones. Cramping must be avoided. This might result in trampling and worse, cannibalism. Chicks grow quickly. That’s why you have to ensure that their room is big enough for their proper accommodation.

Do replace the cardboard or the newspaper placed under their pad every time you notice it’s soiled. Even you wouldn’t like the idea of sleeping in your own feces.



Wednesday, October 17, 2018

Different Types of DUCKS - What You Need to Know Before You Start to RAISING DUCKS

English: Tradewinds park, coconut Creek, Flori...
Cairina moschata or Muscovy duck with ducklings.
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Raising ducks do not need to be hard if you know your reason. Ducks are mostly aquatic birds, mostly smaller than the swans and geese, and may be found in both freshwater and seawater. Some people use "duck" specifically for adult females and "drake" for adult males, others use "hen" and "drake", respectively. Somehow, they are sometimes confused with several types of unrelated water birds with similar forms, such as loons or divers, grebes, gallinules, and coots. Ducks are generally raised for eggs but when snail food gets scarce, they are sold for meat.

Before you start raising ducks, here are the different types for you to consider:

Egg - Type Ducks

1) Khaki Cambell Duck

Khaki Campbell ducks have characteristics brown color, have extremely active habits, do well in good range and show little desire for swimming. These ducks are good layers, they lay as many as 300 or more eggs a year which are fairly large, thick-shelled and weigh 70 to 75 grams each. The body weight at the point of lay is about 1.50kg. On the average, this duck could lay 285 eggs up to 72 weeks of age, with a mean egg weight of 75kg. This duck can be distinguished by their pure white feathers. Their eggs are either white or greenish.

2) Indian Runner
The Indian Runner Duck is a breed of domestic duck. They are native to the Indian-sub-continent and Malaysia. The breed, it is thought, was first brought to Europe via Whitehaven, Cumbria in the United Kingdom, by a sea captain prior to 1835, as they were exhibited at the London Zoological Gardens by this date.

This duck assumes a very erect normal posture with is the almost straight neck. The back is long, straight and narrow. An adult weighs about 2.10kg, while an adult weighs about 1.80kg. The egg production characteristics of this breed resemble that of the Khaki Campbell.

3) Tsaiya
This breed was developed in Taiwan. The original color ranges from black neck to pure white. Due to farmers preference, the brown breed was selected and raised as a major variety, while the white variety was developed for the production of mule ducks. Tsaiya ducks have small body size. An adult female weighs about 1.30kg, while the male weighs about 1.40kg.



Meat - Type Ducks

1) Muscovy Duck

The Muscovy Duck is a large duck which is native to Mexico and Central and South America. Muscovy is a heavy breed. It has a plump body and yellow skin. It has three varieties: the white, the colored and the blue. Unlike other breeds, Muscovy ducks prefer to stay on land.

All Muscovy Ducks have long claws on their feet and a wide flat tail. The drake (male) is about 86 cm long and weighs 4.6-6.8 kg, while the hen (female) is much smaller, at 64 cm in length and 2.7-3.6 kg in weight; domesticated males often weigh up to 8 kg, and domesticated females up to 5 kg.

2) Pekin Duck
Pekin duck was bred from the Mallard in China. The ancestors of those ducks originated from the canals which linked waterways in Nanjing, not Beijing, and originally had small bodies and black feathers. Sometimes it is mistaken for a goose because it carries its body rather upright. Pekin ducks are good layers, and duckling is ready for market at 2 or 3 months old.



Tuesday, October 16, 2018

PIGEON Auctions and PIGEON Racing

Carrier Pigeon
Carrier Pigeon (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
All about Racing Pigeon Auctions
Pigeon racing is a sport of releasing pigeons that are specially bred, trained and conditioned for the races that generally vary from 100-1000 km. The winner is the bird that travels with the highest velocity.

Where to find racing pigeons?
The best place to find the racing pigeons are the pigeon auctions. In an auction, you can find a variety of pigeons for sale. There are a number of pigeon auction sites over the internet. There are different types of Auctions. They are:
  • Complete sell out: In the type of pigeon auction, the loft sells all the birds, clocks and pigeon supplies.
  • Loft reduction auction: this involves reduction of the number of birds in a loft. However, it will still take part in pigeons racing.
  • Special auction: special birds are put to sale in this type of pigeon auction.
  • Donation Auction: the special pigeon is donated to a charity or fund-raiser.
  • participating in any of the above pigeon auction ones should do his homework well. If you cannot afford to buy a trained racing pigeon, you can purchase the pigeons you love and train them.
  • Before participating in online pigeon auctions make sure that the auction company has a good reputation regarding the quality of pigeon supplies, qualities of pigeon racing lofts and the type of conditions and race courses the seller fly.
  • If you are attending the racing pigeon auction in person, then make sure to arrive at the place well before the auction time. This will give time to look over the birds and their pedigrees. As a result, you will be able to make a right decision at the time pigeon auction on which bird to buy.
  • If you do not have enough expertise in studying the racing pigeon loft take the help of experienced pigeon breeders. Assess the pigeons on the basis of the performance but not the appearance of wings, throat, back and muscles.
  • Sometimes it may not be possible for the fancier to attend the auction. In such cases, certain actions allow placing proxy bids or mail in bids well in advance. They even allow the fancier to place the maximum bid on a bird.
Regardless if you decide to find pigeons at auctions or you choose to breed your own birds, the sport of pigeon racing is one of the most enjoyable activities one could experience! Most fanciers have been breeding and raising birds their whole life and really just enjoy the process of raising and training their birds.



I have been making a full-time income reviewing products online. I take great pride in educating my readers with accurate information while also providing honest unbiased reviews. I hope I provided you with top-notch information that you can share with other people who share our same interests!

Pigeon racing has been an interest of mine for several years. I find the process fascinating from breeding to training to racing pigeons.



Monday, October 15, 2018

Tips for Keeping Your PET BIRDS Warm in Winter

English: Cockatiel, Nymphicus hollandicus and ...
Cockatiel, Nymphicus hollandicus and
Budgerigar, Melopsittacus undulatus fighting on a perch.
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
As the weather cools down, it's important to remember that birds need additional care in winter. Many of our exotic and pet bird breeds are originally from warm, tropical climates and cold temperatures can be a health challenge. Here are a few guidelines for pet bird owners to keep in mind during cooler temperatures that will help them keep their pet birds healthy and happy.

Bird owners should move the cage to a draft-free location, away from windows and doors. Moving your bird's cage to a central location in the home can make a big difference in keeping deadly drafts and cold air away from sensitive birds. Shrink-wrap insulation kits can be used on windows and unused doorways in winter to keep cold air out and warm air in. Increasing the humidity indoors in winter is also good for birds, eliminating dryness and excess dander.

Remember that birds are sensitive to smoke and fumes that can come from wood, gas or kerosene heaters. Some electric heaters are treated with a non-stick coating, which can create fumes that are deadly to birds. Some radiator-style electric heaters can be effective, but be sure to check on possibly harmful coatings.

Bird owners should definitely have a cage cover on hand. Covering the cage at night will help keep birds cosy. Some birds enjoy snuggles and snoozes to help keep them warm at night. Heat lamps can be used, and infrared bulbs will create a glow that does not interfere with the bird's sleep cycle. It's important to choose only a bird-safe heat lamp recommended for avian use. Pay attention to the bulbs used in the heat lamp - any bulbs coated with polytetrafluoroethylene can emit toxic fumes when overheated. There are also ceramic heating elements that can be used for birds - from those that clamp onto the cage to heat panels that are placed around the cage. These are specifically designed for animal and avian use. Infrared heat panels that attach to the cage are also an energy-efficient way to keep your bird cosy this winter.



In addition to keeping your bird warm, you'll want to ensure that heating your home doesn't result in a lack of humidity. If so, there are a few simple things you can do to provide the proper conditions for your bird. Regular baths, showers or light misting should be continued throughout the winter months. You can also increase humidity in the home by using a vaporizer or humidifier designed for birds. Other options include placing shallow pans of water on radiators or in the oven when you're pre-heating it, or simply leaving the bathroom door open when you shower to allow the steam into the house.

Feeding your bird a healthy, vitamin-rich diet throughout the year will help boost its immune system and stay healthier despite changes in temperature. Bird owners should make sure the winter diet includes plenty of fruits and vegetables to maintain optimal health.

Of course, keeping a watchful eye on pet birds throughout the winter is important. As you make changes to your bird's environment, be on the lookout for signs of overheating, such as panting, extended neck or holding the wings away from the body. Also, keep an eye out for signs of any health problems - exposure to cold temperatures can lower the bird's immunity and result in illness. At any time of year, simple bird care and monitoring will ensure that pet birds stay healthy and happy.

    By Mary Wyld
    Wyld's Wingdom, established in 1986, is the premier wholesale pet supply distributor for exotic and pet bird products including toys, food, cages, and supplies. We carry an enormous array of avian products at great values that customers can pass along to their retail setting. With its extensive expertise partnered with a tremendous selection of products, Wyld's Wingdom will provide the best information and advice to its customers on the latest bird care, safety, and wellness information. Visit our website at http://www.wingdom.com.
    Article Source: EzineArticles