Birds at Home: Bird Care

Showing posts with label Bird Care. Show all posts

Saturday, October 20, 2018

Sick PET BIRD Care

Determining the bird's characteristics like sex, age, and physical condition
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The article is directed specifically to pet bird owners and is intended for their use as a basic how-to guide on caring properly for a sick or injured bird. Please always follow the advice of your veterinarian & do not use this article as a means of avoiding a hands-on veterinary examination. The key idea of this article is to reduce any and all stress to your recovering bird.

1. WARMTH:

Ill birds will sit with their feathers fluffed in an attempt to conserve heat. The effort to conserve heat places an additional burden on the already debilitated bird. Your veterinarian will determine if your bird requires hospitalization, but if home care is acceptable, I recommend creating a tent to keep your bird warm. A bird's natural temperature is much higher than ours at anywhere from 103F-106F. Therefore, what often feels warm to us can be chilly to them and this is particularly true in sick birds. A simple way of providing heat is to cover 1/2 of the cage with a blanket and place a heat lamp on the other side as a heat source. Generally speaking, we keep our sick birds at environmental temperatures ranging from 85-95F. This will vary greatly with the individual bird so it is important to monitor your pet to ensure that you are providing the correct temperature and of course seek your veterinarian's advice.

A bird that is too hot will have very sleek feathers held tightly to the body, will hold its wings (shoulders) slightly away from its body and may pant. If you see any of these signs your bird is much too warm and the environmental temperature should be reduced accordingly. For night warmth I recommend using a red light. Ill birds, just like ill people, require rest and if kept under bright lights all night they will become sleep deprived. Also, during the day it is important to provide light so that they may be encouraged to eat and can be monitored. Therefore, the entire cage should never be covered during the day. I don't recommend heating pads because it is very difficult to regulate the temperature. If a bird is not perching and sitting directly on the pad they can easily become overheated or burned. And in my experience baby birds that are raised on heating pad quickly become dehydrated and again are subject to burns.

2. STRESS:

Debilitated birds must be kept in a stress-free situation. Often what appears normal to us can cause stress in our feathered friends. I suggest taking a close look at your bird's environment with a critical eye to determine what may be stress factors. Some common ones include, the bird in the center of house traffic with no chance to rest, cigarette smoke or aerosols in the birds environment, lack of darkness/sleep time at night, other pets, small children, too much visual stimuli (cage directly in front of a window), competition from cage mates, too much handling, poor nutrition and temperature extremes (such as birds kept in kitchens). I recommend that sick birds be left in their cage and allowed to calmly recuperate.

Think of this as bed rest for your pet! Too much handling can stress the bird and will require the bird to use additional calories. If the bird is housed with other birds, it is usually best to remove the bird to a single cage. Some birds can become too stressed when separated from the colony so you should seek your veterinarian's advice on how to cage your sick pet. However, generally removing the bird from the group will reduce the stress of competition for nutrition and allow for medicating easily and better monitoring. Of course, if an infectious disease is suspected, then the pet must be moved into an isolation cage and at least a separate room - preferably a separate house with no other birds.

3. NUTRITION:

If your doctor made dietary recommendations, now is not the time to implement change. Changes in the type of diet will cause enormous stress to your bird and should be started when the bird has recovered. Always discuss how and when to made dietary changes with your pet's doctor. Generally, I recommend offering all the bird's favorite foods during illness because many ill birds become anorexic and can be lost due to starvation. If your bird is normally a seedeater but not currently eating, try placing millets sprays in the cage which most birds enjoy. The important thing to remember is that it has taken months to years for the bird to become malnourished and this cannot be corrected in a day or a week. Slow changes are essential for the ill bird. If you are unable to get your pet to eat he/she should be hospitalized for gavage feeding and further care. Birds have a high metabolic rate and can quickly starve.

Thus, a pet bird that stops eating should always be assumed to be critically ill, certainly, the potential for fatality is present. Lastly, if your bird is a hand reared baby and is not eating due to illness, you can often revert them back to hand feeding (syringe feeding) during the convalescent period. A good hand rearing formula should be used. The formula should be mixed with hot water as directed on the bag and offered to the bird. Do not force the bird to eat. Pet owners should never force feed their birds. A bird can easily aspirate (inhale food) and develop pneumonia and force-feeding causes enormous stress to your bird. Reverting to hand feeding is only of use for those birds that willingly accept feeding on the syringe. Also, if hand feeding, the formula must be warmed correctly (follow the advice on the formula bag and that of your veterinarian) to avoid food burns from too hot formula and crop stasis from formula fed at too cool a temperature.

4. MEDICATING:

Routes:

1. Injectable,

2. In water or Food,

3. Topical,

4. Oral

I prefer not to medicate in the pet's water or the food. Medication is given in this way often causes a change in the taste and can potentially cause the bird to reduce their food and water intake. Also, when medication is placed in the food or water it is very difficult to determine how much of the medication the pet has actually ingested. Thus, in my opinion, the best routes are injectable and oral. Topical medication often is not of use to the pet and will cause oily feathers.

Prior to taking your bird home, you should be shown how to appropriately medicate your bird by the doctor or technician. Briefly, the patient should be held in an upright position and the syringe containing the medication should be gently introduced from the left side of the mouth and angled to the right side. Most birds will attempt to bite the syringe allowing it to be easily introduced into the oral cavity. Slowly depress the plunger on the syringe to dispense the medication into the lower portion of the beak. If the pet struggles while medicating, stop for a few moments and then try again. You should advise your veterinarian if you are unable to medicate your pet. Medication can be mixed with a flavoring agent (FlavorX), which will help to reduce some resistance. Occasionally, depending on the reason for treatment, your doctor may be able to give a long-acting injection in place of oral medication but this has limited uses and thus is not available for every pet.

5. FOLLOW-UP EXAMINATIONS:

As soon as the illness was detected in your pet he/she was taken to the veterinarian for a thorough physical examination and diagnostic workup including laboratory testing. Unfortunately, many people will see that their pet is improving and don't realize that a follow-up exam is necessary. I always suggest rechecking the patient at variable intervals depending on the state of debilitation. The recheck exam allows your doctor to assess the patient's response to treatment and the owner's compliance with instructions. Many times in the course of treating an exotic pet the treatment must be altered somewhat to ensure the best response. These rechecks are also used as a way of reinforcing the changes needed for the bird to remain healthy. Additionally, lab values can be rechecked to ensure that the patient is truly recovering and not just feeling well enough again to resume hiding any weakness. I can't stress the importance of this follow up enough, it is extremely important to the health of your bird.

Most importantly, follow the advice of your veterinarian and ask questions to ensure that you completely understand what is needed of you to get your pet back to health.

Jill Patt

http://www.littlecrittersvet.com

http://www.altamesaanimalhospital.com

EzineArticles

Friday, October 19, 2018

Hot Birds Need A BIRD BATH

A fountain on a birdbath, with flowers. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Just like people, birds get hot and thirsty. Especially during the blistering summer months, your favorite flying friends may be roasting in their feathers. Help out your local birds and provide them with a shady spot to splash, play, bathe, and drink—a bird bath! Especially in areas that lack natural sources of water, such as springs, ponds, lakes, or streams, bird baths are essential for the health and happiness of birds in your area. In addition to helping out your fine feathered friends, a birdbath will attract all sorts of birds to your yard and allow you and your family to enjoy their company.

Think of it: if you were a bird, where would you want to splash about? Would you choose a muddy, stinky puddle or a clean, fresh bird bath? The choice is not just obvious to humans, but birds have a distinct preference. Once you have decided to lend a helping hand to your local birds, make the trek to find a bath that fits into your style and design of your yard. There are tons of options, from baths that borrow style from the white marble columns of ancient Greece to fantastically modern creations that could double for an avant-garde statue.

After you have brought your birdbath home, find a place to set up the bath well within sight of your outdoor and indoor spaces. Consider installing a birdbath near your porch, patio, deck, or house’s windows so that you can enjoy the birds from anywhere in your home. Fill the birdbath with cool, clean water and watch the birds flock around your bath.

In order to draw more birds, consider using a fountain birdbath instead of a traditional birdbath that holds still water. Birds love the sound of running water and prefer fountain bird baths dramatically over still bird baths. If a fountain bird bath is out of your budget, consider creating your own fountain. Something as simple as a bucket with a hole drilled in the bottom positioned over the top of your existing birdbath works just as great as expensive fountain bird bath, although it may not be quite as aesthetically pleasing.

Keep in mind that birds need bird baths year round, especially in some parts of the country that seem to be out of the grip of Jack Frost. Instead of putting your birdbath inside during the winter, purchase a model that can remain outdoors for the entire year. Heated bird baths work to ensure that ice does not form in the bath, but does not produce a birdie hot tub, so birds will keep coming to your yard regardless of the weather.

Monday, October 15, 2018

Tips for Keeping Your PET BIRDS Warm in Winter

Cockatiel, Nymphicus hollandicus and
Budgerigar, Melopsittacus undulatus fighting on a perch.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As the weather cools down, it's important to remember that birds need additional care in winter. Many of our exotic and pet bird breeds are originally from warm, tropical climates and cold temperatures can be a health challenge. Here are a few guidelines for pet bird owners to keep in mind during cooler temperatures that will help them keep their pet birds healthy and happy.

Bird owners should move the cage to a draft-free location, away from windows and doors. Moving your bird's cage to a central location in the home can make a big difference in keeping deadly drafts and cold air away from sensitive birds. Shrink-wrap insulation kits can be used on windows and unused doorways in winter to keep cold air out and warm air in. Increasing the humidity indoors in winter is also good for birds, eliminating dryness and excess dander.

Remember that birds are sensitive to smoke and fumes that can come from wood, gas or kerosene heaters. Some electric heaters are treated with a non-stick coating, which can create fumes that are deadly to birds. Some radiator-style electric heaters can be effective, but be sure to check on possibly harmful coatings.

Bird owners should definitely have a cage cover on hand. Covering the cage at night will help keep birds cosy. Some birds enjoy snuggles and snoozes to help keep them warm at night. Heat lamps can be used, and infrared bulbs will create a glow that does not interfere with the bird's sleep cycle. It's important to choose only a bird-safe heat lamp recommended for avian use. Pay attention to the bulbs used in the heat lamp - any bulbs coated with polytetrafluoroethylene can emit toxic fumes when overheated. There are also ceramic heating elements that can be used for birds - from those that clamp onto the cage to heat panels that are placed around the cage. These are specifically designed for animal and avian use. Infrared heat panels that attach to the cage are also an energy-efficient way to keep your bird cosy this winter.

In addition to keeping your bird warm, you'll want to ensure that heating your home doesn't result in a lack of humidity. If so, there are a few simple things you can do to provide the proper conditions for your bird. Regular baths, showers or light misting should be continued throughout the winter months. You can also increase humidity in the home by using a vaporizer or humidifier designed for birds. Other options include placing shallow pans of water on radiators or in the oven when you're pre-heating it, or simply leaving the bathroom door open when you shower to allow the steam into the house.

Feeding your bird a healthy, vitamin-rich diet throughout the year will help boost its immune system and stay healthier despite changes in temperature. Bird owners should make sure the winter diet includes plenty of fruits and vegetables to maintain optimal health.

Of course, keeping a watchful eye on pet birds throughout the winter is important. As you make changes to your bird's environment, be on the lookout for signs of overheating, such as panting, extended neck or holding the wings away from the body. Also, keep an eye out for signs of any health problems - exposure to cold temperatures can lower the bird's immunity and result in illness. At any time of year, simple bird care and monitoring will ensure that pet birds stay healthy and happy.

Mary Wyld

http://www.wingdom.com

EzineArticles

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Interesting Tidbits About BIRDS

An Orange-winged Amazon at Kuala Lumpur Bird Park, Malaysia.
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Bird lovers know that these inquisitive and social creatures make ideal pets that can provide plenty of entertainment and companionship. While all birds need basic housing, nutritious food and plenty of watchful care, it is important to understand the features that are unique to each species that may affect their health and happiness. Whether you are considering a pet bird or already have one of your own, check out these interesting tidbits about birds that can provide more insight into their behavior.

Birds Can Outlive Their Owner

Before choosing a bird as a pet, it is important for you to know that many birds have extremely long lifespans. Canaries, budgies, and lovebirds can all live eight years or more, and macaws and cockatoos can live well beyond 40 years. For this reason, many bird owners appoint a guardian for their bird to ensure continuous care in the event that it outlives them.

Mushrooms are Harmful to Birds

While you can watch as your pet bird happily gobbles up many of the fresh fruits and vegetables that you put on your plate, it may come as a surprise that certain foods are on the forbidden list. Mushrooms are one that can be especially dangerous because the stems and caps of certain types have led to liver failure in birds. They also cause digestive disorders in parrots.

Birds Use Body Language to Communicate

Most pet owners are familiar with common actions performed by dogs and cats to communicate with their companions, but birds also convey emotions through shifting their feathers and assuming a specific stance. For example, loose, ruffled feathers may mean that a bird is happy; however, flared wings or shoulders may mean that a bird is either getting ready to fight or interested in courting. Many people are also surprised to find that birds will sometimes wag their tails as a greeting to their owner.

Even Small Birds Eat a Lot

When observing birds, it is easy to notice that it seems they are always eating. Whether they are outdoors eating small insects or a pet consuming their nutritious feed, it is necessary for a bird to eat at least half their body weight each day to be able to survive. Pet owners should be conscious of this fact so that they can plan their bird's feeding routine accordingly. Birds also prefer variety in their diet so include the occasional treat in your pet's bowl.

Sensory Stimulation is Important for Happiness

Due to the social nature of birds, it is critical to provide them with constant stimulation that they can use to keep boredom at bay and find comfort. Colorful toys, jingle bells, and climbing structures can all enhance a bird's cage. Birds also notice a change in their environment so you may want to trade out toys from time to time. If you must leave your bird alone during the day, use a radio or television to provide auditory stimulation that is similar to social conversations.

Interacting with your bird regularly has its share of rewards. Through chirps, mimicking and even repeating words, this pet can show happiness and forge a long-lasting bond with its owner. Understanding and responding to the finer nuances that make birds unique will enhance your relationship with your favorite avian companion while safeguarding their health and longevity.

By Genie Fletcher

Tuesday, April 10, 2018

8 Simple Tips For Keeping Your PET BIRDS HEALTH

Birdseed mixture in a bird feeder (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

1. Birds need to eat a nutritionally sound diet in order to live a long life. Improper feeding can lead to malnutrition and disease resulting in a shorter lifespan. Start off by feeding your bird right from the beginning.

2. Parrots and birds of the parrot family can eat a variety of different kinds of foods. Seeds should not be a parrot’s only food. This is a mistake many new bird owners make. Seeds contain mostly fat and not enough protein and very few vitamins.

3. Birds can eat most table foods but it is best to stick to healthy items including items containing whole grains, pretzels, and whole wheat pasta and bread. Foods high in fat should be avoided. Never feed them avocados as they are toxic to birds.

4. Good sources of nutrition for your bird include beans and legumes as well as various vegetables and fruits. Some birds resist new foods at first while others are open to trying many new things. Although it may take some time keep trying to introduce your bird to a variety of healthy foods.

5. Changes to a bird’s diet should be done slowly and progressively over time. Provide fresh foods twice per day for approximately an hour each time. Be careful not to leave fresh food in the bird’s cage too long as it will develop bacteria which can make your bird sick.

6. Your bird should be fed two times per day. This will result in your bird getting hungry which will make it more active. Also, a good appetite can make it more likely that your bird will try new foods. Feeding at set times twice per day will also allow you to be able to monitor how much your bird is eating. If your bird is not eating well this can tell you that it is not feeling well or has a health problem.

7. If your bird is a picky eater and you cannot get it to eat a varied diet you can try warming or be cooking the vegetables. Take away seeds except at meal time until your bird starts eating healthy foods on a regular basis.

8. Just as water is necessary for people it is also necessary for healthy birds. Keep your bird’s water dish filled with fresh, clean water at all times. Bird bowls can become very dirty and should, therefore, be cleaned each day with hot soapy water. Once every other week you should clean your bird’s water dish with a solution containing bleach. Also, make it a point to pick up some water-soluble bird vitamins at the local pet store and add vitamins to your birds' water daily.

Birds make wonderful pets for the whole family and they can live a long time if taken care of properly. Proper care of birds includes maintaining a healthy diet of seeds, vegetables, and fruit.

Tuesday, December 19, 2017

TRAVELING with your BIRD - some tips from folks who travel with their bird every day.

Photo by challiyan

Before we get into specifics, let’s start with the basics. Emergencies aside, if you’re planning to travel with your bird, get the travel cage a few weeks in advance. This will give your bird time to get accustomed to the new cage. Also, measure - measure - measure. Make sure it will fit in where ever it will be going car, travel trailer, family vehicle, motor home, commercial airliner, vacation cottage - just make sure it fits.

We don’t have a flock, we have one small Indian Ringneck - Sunshine. Sunshine is 17. Catherine acquired him as a baby. He loves being with mom. We know about traveling with a bird. At home, he has a 30 x 30 California cage, a large playstand in the dining room and another playstand in the kitchen. Every workday Sunshine climbs into his custom, 18-inch long carrier and comes to work with us.

We open the carrier, he climbs up his Booda perch into his 26 x 20 HQ cage and finishes breakfast. Afterwards, he’ll walk back out via the Booda perch onto his King’s acrylic playstand. When he gets bored he fly’s onto his Prevue playstand or his Prevue 20 x 20 wire cage where he’ll stand so he can watch mom oversee the shipping of packages to our customers.

We spend many of our summer weekends at a campground. When we get there he usually goes right into his 18 x 18 Prevue cage. We modified our small travel trailer so the cage fits nicely into a closet where we removed the top of the door and provided a gentle light. When we’re outside the trailer, we have a large canopy/tent where Sunshine spends time in his 32 x 21 HQ aviary under the canvas. He always has one side of his cage against a wall for his own privacy.

If you’ve been following my notes, you’ll see our little 3-ounce bird has 10 cages and stands. We’ve never had a problem getting him into a new cage because

1) we don’t make of an issue of it and
2) he’s happy just to be with us.

A travel cage can be metal, fabric or plastic like - rigid or collapsible. Because it’s a travel cage only makes it slightly different than his home cage. If its metal, bar spacing should be appropriate. If it’s fabric, the fabric should be durable enough and well designed to discourage chewing. Clear plastic cages allow for great vision but may be confining for extended travel periods. It may only have one perch instead of three or four. Make sure it’s comfortable on the feet. Stopping and starting in traffic should not cause your bird discomfort. A couple of small toys should be introduced to keep birdie boredom down. If you’re traveling by auto, keep the bird in the back seat away from airbags in case of “god-forbids.” Keep it strapped with a seatbelt to avoid sudden movement.

If your driving at night, cover the cage, the intermittent glare of auto lights can be scary, especially if it's after bedtime. If you’re taking a road trip stopping at motels, find a place to put the travel cage where you bird can sleep with as little disturbance as possible through the night. We usually find the bathroom counter to be the best spot, it’s out of the way and once the cage is covered, affords privacy. In terms of temperature, it’s simple - if your comfortable, your bird is comfortable. No hot cars with the window cracked or in front of air conditioners in hotel rooms.

If traveling for the first time, we suggest a few trial runs before the big trip. Go to friends, the vet or even just a ride, the bird gets accustomed to the procedure, travel process and change in general. If you let the bird out of the travel cage while in the vehicle don’t forget to put him back before any passengers open the door. Some birds don’t like to poop in their travel cage. This is a judgment call. Choose carefully where you’ll let them out to poop. You also may want to check out the nearest avian vet to your destination, before you get there - just so you have the info.

Remember. birds in the wild are natural travelers. Larger birds will fly 50 or miles per day seeking food. Many migrate thousands of miles twice annually. It’s usually less of an issue for the bird than for you. Lastly, we know you love showing off your bird. Unknown places would not be the time to do it. Unscrupulous people may have ulterior motives. While traveling with your bird it’s no one's business but your own.Have a great trip

Mitch Rezman

www.windycityparrot.com

Saturday, December 9, 2017

Why do BIRDS scream

English: Pet Sun Conure (Aratinga solstitialis...

Pet Sun Conure (Aratinga solstitialis) demonstrating analytical puzzle solving skills.(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Boy if we had THE answer we’d be writing this from our yacht. But of course, I have to weigh in here. What got me thinking about the subject of “why birds scream,” is some recent web surfing.

I spend my days doing what many of you wish you could be doing, surfing the web for bird toys and parrot cages. The magic of the internet enables us to shop the world. In order for us to provide the best possible shopping experience. We look at lots of sites and products. Pricing is important but not our priority. We feel good information about parrots and general avian issues is the most important product we can offer. And we offer that for free. We like to know who’s selling what. We also like to see how well they’re selling it i.e. is the site easy to navigate. Do they offer multiple payment choices and so forth?

But I digress – So here I am on the of a national chain of pet supply products. They have an FAQ for bird ownership. Something we always applaud. Well, I’m reading the list and one of the topics is Why is my bird screaming? No real explanation is offered and at the end of the paragraph, they recommend taking your parrot to a vet if screaming persists.

Yikers! Screaming parrots – vets – why?

Let’s look at this logical folks, not that parrots are logical but they are creatures of habit. One of the things we learned from Michelle Karras www.thepoliteparrot.com is silence means danger! If you have a flock of wild parrots in trees (in their natural environment) or even a flock of local wild birds in your backyard. On any given sunny day a flock of birds will make a lot of noise – it’s all about FLOCK. Chirp, chirp, scream, scream. What are they communicating about? Same things we do. “Find any food lately? Yeah, they had a great sale on worms about a mile from here.”

SILENCE means danger! If you’ve ever seen a hawk fly over a flock of wild birds, you swear you can hear the sound of the hawk’s wings flapping. That’s one of the reasons parrots come in so many colors. If they’re quiet and deep in a tree they are difficult to spot. When that danger passes its chirp, chirp, scream, scream. So again I ask, “is screaming a reason to run to the vet? I don’t think so.

Something we hear a lot of is - people will have a screaming bird (usually newbie’s) and the bird will scream for whatever reason. What does their human companion do? Yell SHUT UP! And what does the parrot do? SCREAM SOME MORE!

Again I fall back on my good friend logic. The bird screams, you scream back. Do you think there may be a slight chance that when you scream back the bird might be thinking “hey – this is great! Someone is finally squawking back at me “hey SCREAM, SCREAM, please scream back some more, I’m lonely you’re my flock and I need to talk to someone than you?”

Begin to see where I’m going with this grasshopper? OK so now you know one of the whys. Here’s a little tip from Michelle Karras www.thepoliteparrot.com that may work for you:

Excessive screaming is a learned behavior that we teach our birds. Covering your feathered companion with a blanket teaches him or her that you will cover the cage when scream gets out of hand.

Yelling at a screaming parrot gives the parrot the attention it seeks. Ignoring a screaming parrot is not the answer either. Ignoring bird’s screams could result in finding injuries too late (or water had run out). Options are to make sure all your Psittacines needs are satisfied. Large hygienic cage, clean water, fresh food, working toys. Twelve hours of sleep (uninterrupted), softwood and other materials to chew, and plenty of exercises.

Start with a signal to stop loud parrots. Ring a cowbell (or bang a pot) in the room next to the screaming bird. They hear the bell (sound), they stop to listen, Show up from the other room while they are quiet to praise and reward. Set them up to succeed. Use a time when you know they are quite loud. Distract them with a new noise in the next room. As soon as they stop to listen, appear and praise.

Lengthen the time between the signal and your appearance each time. Try and take a whole day at first and only work with the parrot and the screaming. Initial rewards should be substantial, a known favorite treat. Use the same signal just before feeding fresh food. Wait until the parrot is noisy; give the signal, praise, and feed.

Not all parrots will quiet down for the same signal so you may have to try several noises before finding the one that works for you.

Note: Do not use your voice. They may try to mimic you.

Scream time is a time during the day that you allow your parrots to be noisy. This should be given somewhere between 3p.m. and 7p.m. each day. Encourage your parrots by playing stimulating music. Dance, sing or scream along with them. Scream time should last no less than 15minutes and no more than 1/2 hour each day.

Some parrots enjoy screaming to the vacuum, this is fine to encourage but play music as well. Find music that your parrot gets excited over. Use that same song every day for scream time. Change the music from time to time but be consistent overall. When Scream time is over, lower the music volume Talk your parrot down. Lower the music slowly, turn it off, and play their relaxation code music. Give them afternoon snacks when “cool down” is over.

Birds will wait for their "Scream Time” because they know they will be rewarded for their patience.

Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Advantages Of BIRD NETTING

Bird netting on top of grapevines outside Kumeu, near Auckland, New Zealand. Most of the sides have been lifted up for harvesting. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Birds are one of the top problems of the agricultural production in the country. Not only do birds interrupt crops, they can also ruin your garden, the school’s playground, the parking lot in your work, and many more locations where birds exist.

There are many products that could help you with your problem. There are a number of pesticides and other machinery that could be used to prevent pest birds. But there are also many good birds that do not cause damage, and may even help to pollinate your crops and garden or control smaller pests such as bugs. What, therefore, is the safest way to control the population of problem birds without interfering with the populations of the good birds? Bird netting is your answer.

Bird netting has many advantages, such as -

1. Health Issues

There have been studies that birds could give illnesses when droppings get in contact with people’s skin. Pigeons, for example, carry infectious diseases. These pigeons could give people tuberculosis, flu, paratyphoid, Lyme-disease, Toxoplasmosis, and Encephalitis. By making sure that these pigeons do not spread their diseases, bird netting could put an end to your health worrying.

2. Protecting Plantation

Most birds tend to peck on your fruits, vegetables, and plants because they know that these are food. Do not underestimate the birds. Protect your plantation with bird netting, so your plants are fenced safely away from their prying beaks.

3. Save The Birds

The best advantage bird netting has is it is environmentally friendly. By making use of bird netting to protect your property, you are not killing the birds. You are simply covering up the location with a net for the birds to stay away. Unlike other methods of pest control, bird netting does not harm the birds. Pesticides and aroma repellants terminate the birds permanently. Plus, there are laws regarding the harming of birds like robins and blackbirds. Using bird netting, you are abiding the law!

4. Bird netting is versatile

- Large spaces such as buildings parks, and plantations

- Small spaces like backyard or a rose garden

- Agricultural farms and plants

- Impressive variety of bird netting products

- A single bird net can be used for as long as ten years

- Variety of colors

- Variety of materials available (usually polyethylene strings or steel, to withstand extreme weather conditions)

- Prices of bird netting range from $150 to $8000 dollars

Bird netting is the smartest and most affordable way to repel birds in your area. One final note - be aware that an absence of birds may cause your garden to be a safe haven for bugs and other smaller pests that would otherwise have been controlled had the birds have access to the area. Bird netting does not 100% guarantee the livelihood of your protected area.

Thursday, November 9, 2017

First Aid for PARROTS

Part of parrots world in KL bird park (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Unfortunately, accidents can - and DO happen, so it's always a good idea to be prepared! While accidents usually produce obvious injuries, illnesses are often kept well hidden by birds. In nature, if you're sick you pose a threat in making your whole flock vulnerable to predators, so parrots have become adept at masking signs of illness. This is one reason that it's vital to have a "well-bird" check-up annually. Needless to say, once a bird is showing obvious signs of illness, he's often very sick and needs immediate vet attention. First Aid is intended to help you get by until you can see the vet, or in treating minor injuries.

It's helpful to have a "hospital cage" for emergencies - a smaller, easily portable cage where you can isolate a sick or injured bird and easily move him to a warm, quiet, area of your home. It's advisable to have a quarantine area as well - for new birds coming into the home, as well as sick birds recovering from an infection. This area should be well separated from the rest of your birds to prevent air-borne transmission of germs, as well as those spread by direct contact.

Some of the signs of possible illness include: more time on cage floor, talking and playing less, fluffed feathers, lack of appetite, drinking more water, personality changes (such as becoming bitey or not wanting to come out of the cage), tail bobbing, puffy eyes, sleeping on both feet with head tucked, droopy wings, sneezing or coughing, "clicking" in chest, vomiting, diarrhea, soiled vent, etc. I won't go into specific diseases here, but hopefully, you get a general idea - if things are "different," get to the vet! Other problems include broken blood feathers or egg binding.

It's a good idea to put together a first aid kit - Include:

· Eye and skin wash

· Styptic powder

· Corn starch

· Antiseptic wipes

· Cotton Swabs and balls

· Eye dropper

· Assorted bandages - gauze, adhesive, vet wrap

· Scissors

· Latex Gloves

· Forceps or hemostats

· Betadine or iodine swabs

· Adhesive tape

· Penlight

· Heating pad and/or lamp

· Hydrogen peroxide

· Pedialyte (Electrolyte solution for babies)

· Hand feeding formula and syringes

· Phone number for vets and poison control

Generally, with any illness or injury, remove the bird to a hospital cage and put him in a warm, quiet, dimly lit room (bathrooms can work). Provide fresh water (and Pedialyte if needed). Feed favorite foods (healthier things you know he'll eat) plus warm foods like cooked rice or oatmeal. In addition, spray millet is often enjoyed by smaller birds. If he's not eating well on his own, offer some warm food with your fingers or a spoon. If need be, you may have to mix up hand feeding formula and give by cup or syringe. If you've kept your bird in the habit of eating from a spoon or cup, this will be easier. DO NOT use the counter remedies from pet stores. It's too much of a guessing game. I know a Pionus who became psychotic after being given an OTC bird "remedy" and would not stop thrashing around her cage. A little chamomile tea can help the bird relax and ginger tea is good for digestive upsets. If you're familiar with herbal remedies, you can safely use those without causing harm to your bird. NEVER give antibiotics without knowing your bird actually has a BACTERIAL infection (and which bacteria!)

Broken blood feathers (or those accidentally clipped) can be hard to stop bleeding. Do not use styptic powder on the skin or soft tissue - only on bleeding nails. Otherwise, use corn starch as a coagulant. If the blood feather (immature feather with live blood supply) won't stop bleeding, it has to be pulled or the bird can bleed to death.

A note on egg binding: If a hen is on the cage bottom, fluffed up and straining, she may be "egg bound". Put her in a warm, humid place (like the bathroom). You can rub some vegetable oil around her vent. Egg bound hens can die fairly quickly, though, and if the egg does not pass within several hours, she needs to get to the vet immediately (a good diet with extra calcium will help prevent this.)

So get in the habit of inspecting your birds on a daily basis, and being alert for signs of distress. Read up on diseases and gain a basic knowledge of illness in birds. "Bird proof" your home, avoid toxic fumes and unsafe toys. Have a first aid kit and hospital cage available. No what's "normal" for your bird and act quickly if things don't seem right. Find a good AVIAN vet and see them annually. Be sure your house and your bird's cage and play areas are as safe as possible. Feed the best diet you can to ensure your birds' best possible health. Wouldn't it be nice if your first aid kit never gets used?!

Marilu Anderson

EzineArticles

Monday, October 23, 2017

Basic Guide to Setting Up Outdoor and Indoor FINCH AVIARIES

An example of a commercial home aviary
(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Finch aviaries are beautiful homes for birds. These aviaries provide them with a bigger space that is more like their natural habitat than a simple cage. You can either opt for either an outdoor finch aviary or an indoor finch aviary. There are lots of aviaries for sale that would suit either an indoor or an outdoor setting. However, if you are up to the challenge, building your own aviary isn't entirely impossible and might just give you a sense of satisfaction and achievement afterward.

An indoor aviary may be installed after being obtained, bought, or built directly into the walls of your residence. Make sure the aviary is equipped with tree limbs that are safe so that your birds have a place for perching. Do not overcrowd your aviary with plants or perches, because finches need to fly often for exercise. It is not recommended to place too many toys and perches along the length of their flight path because they would only be flying short distances. Spacing the perches appropriately ensures that they fly longer and exercise their flight muscles.

The aviary must have good ventilation, air filters to help the quality of air, and organic sunlight since direct sunlight is not necessary.

If you choose to buy or make an indoor aviary, do take note that cleanup time will involve a lot more labor compared to when you have an outdoor aviary. You will need to clean about 2 to 3 times per week to get rid of droppings and fallen feathers. Therefore, it is extremely important that your indoor aviary is made of materials that are easy to wipe off or clean to minimize time and effort spent on cleaning. Ceramic tiles and linoleum as flooring are among the top choices of pet owners.

Outdoor aviaries are equally beautiful but it can get very complicated. You have to deal with factors such as weather and predators. The aviary can be a good home for your finches if you live in a warm climate. However, there are people who only use their outdoor aviary during the summertime, though. But if you take into consideration the general disposition of these birds, it might not be a good idea to keep transferring them from one place to another. Some types of finches don't adapt well to frequent changes in location.

If you opt to have an outdoor aviary, you must ensure that your finches have access to shade, protection from wind and rain and that the interior of the aviary cannot be accessed by predators such as rats, mice, snakes, dogs, and cats. Adding a layer of mesh around your outdoor aviary will be an added protection because it will prevent predators from having access to your aviary. A double entry may also be necessary so when you enter the aviary, no birds can escape easily.

Buying an outdoor aviary may cause you more money though. However, if you prefer it rather than building one, remember the basic safeguards you would normally look out for when building your own outdoor aviary.

Finch aviaries can boost your finches' health; mainly because aviaries are bigger and you can design it in such a way that would simulate the birds' natural environment outside, therefore increasing their quality of life.

Grace Hutchings

Finch Aviaries

http://www.petfinchadvice.com