Thursday, June 7, 2018

Essential Tips To Building A CHICKEN COOP From Blueprints

English: Chicken coop and run by Oakdene Coops
Chicken coop and run by Oakdene Coops (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
If you've decided to build your chicken coop based off of a set of plans or blueprints, the three essentials you can't ignore prior to building are: creating an open and comfortable area for the chickens, providing a safe pen to house the chickens, and making sure there is plenty of light. The more comfortable your chickens, the happier, healthier, and more productive they'll be.

You'll want your chicken coop to also provide plenty of ventilation by allowing air to flow freely. Chicken poop and heat can make for an uncomfortable environment which may upset the flock. Hot days can also cause discomfort so you want to provide chickens with a means to cool down therefore shady areas are also essential. During the colder winter months, you also want the chickens to be able to warm up and remain comfortable.

Chickens, like most birds, love to perch. Look for plans that include some sort of perching areas. By providing designated perches, chickens will be less likely to perch in areas you want to keep them away from such as water and food locations. Chickens often poop wherever they're perched so you don't want perches anywhere near areas that should remain clean and disease free.

Nest boxes are also a must-have. You want your chickens to be able to find their spot to lay eggs comfortably and nests are perfect for this. They don't have to be fancy nests as you'll need to keep them clean on a regular basis but a designated area or box is ideal.



So, by understanding the basic essentials of what makes for a good chicken coop, you'll be in a better position to choose a well-designed blueprint. It doesn't have to be fancy as your chickens won't pass judgement on your tastes but your coop should provide all the comforts that make chickens relaxed, comfortable, safe, and secure.


Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Adopt a Smaller Pet Bird - POICEPHALUS Meyeri

Mohrenkopfpapagei1.jpg
"Mohrenkopfpapagei1 Licensed via Wikimedia Commons.
The bird with the scientific name Poicephalus Meyeri originated from the wilds of Central and Eastern Africa. Meyers have gone through countless hybrids without having to consider instant look "standard" in plume color and other features. Meyer parrots appear to be of six sub-species; each looking perfectly similar with the rest, resulting to lack of dominant marks to distinguish each from the others.

It is believed that breeding has started from the wilds where the bird originated, and gone through with disregard in the proper manipulations and considerations on the bird's total breed. Meyeri parrots are inferior in size compared to other birds, a preferred choice for household pets. Being small saves you from preparing a large cage, conducive to smaller space in its foster home.

Like other parrots, there's no assurance that the Meyer will talk. It takes a lot of patience and determination to let it mimic in return to efforts done in training. The disadvantage of its having gone through unprecedented hybrid processes is believed to have started while on captives in the forests; original breeders, mindless to focus on basic colors.

Later breeders have difficulty in their assessments; as to whether they could still resolve to come up with the desired feather color combinations, that may under mind a fixed determining appearance of the bird. They are less capable to detect how many species are scattered, making for a whole population of confusing inter hybrid in captivity.
Six Sub-species of the Meyer Parrot (Poicephalus Meyeri)
1. Poicephalus Meyeri Meyeri
2. Saturatus
3. Reichenowi
4. Matschiei
5. Damarensis
6. Trasvaalensis
It takes a very knowledgeable observer to detect which this and that, of its sub-kind because of the complicated spread in overall plumage. It's a general vague overview on the breeding approach; and presenting today a big controversy what touch in a hybrid to concentrate, if only to settle to one image. Meyers' bird breeding has similarities to what was done with the Senegal bird; kind of "mind twist" run-down observation tests which, and what sub-species.

Plumages' dominant hue is of gray and brown. Back part is gray, and bills are dark gray. Thighs, wings, crown, and shoulders are yellow. Heads and beaks determine what apparent sex it belongs. Males obviously have flatter heads, but to get the total assurance of its sex is through operation or DNA test.



Mature Meyers weigh 100 to 135 grams, measure between 7 to 9 inches (20 to 22 cm.), and length of wings spread to full span is 5 to 6 inches (14 to 14.9 cm). It reaches sexual maturity from age three to four years old, and lay 3 to 4 eggs, hatched after a period of 3 months (12 to 13 weeks) but could leave the nest after 9 weeks.

    By Low Jeremy Low Jeremy has been writing articles on science, sports and internet marketing for a few years. - Article Source: EzineArticles


Gearbest Binocular for Bird Watching
Binocular for Bird Watching

The Essentials in Training Your RACING PIGEONS

Inside an older pigeon clock
Inside an older pigeon clock (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
The pigeon is a unique animal in the sense that it is very comfortable with human beings. It is from the same family as with the doves. In fact, both of them are treated to be symbols of peace and love. Like athletes, these birds are molded to compete. That is why they are trained to become racing pigeons.

Like any other creature, pigeons also have that sense of wanting to belong. The bird can't stand being away from its habitat. In cases when there is a loft assigned to it since its young age, it will always come back no matter what happens. This ability of the pigeon to return to its nesting places despite great distances is what is taken advantage of by the pigeon racing enthusiasts.

Training a Young Bird

The basic training of a youngster must be done by the handler himself. It is about familiarizing the bird with its handler. Later on, as the handler executes the commands, the bird learns to obey. This is also the time to build the bird's confidence regarding a direct contact with a human being.

Training needs a schedule. You must have that effect on the bird to let it understand that you are working on a certain schedule. Likewise, a constancy of action is very important. Never ever confuse the bird by making command variations or interchanging them. With regards to the schedule, the racing pigeons become fully aware of what to expect from you at different times of the day. They will know when they will fly when they will be fed when the loft will be cleaned when the water will be changed, and so on.

You will be surprised to find out that these birds are smart enough to adapt to your daily routine. If it is time to fly, you will see them sitting at the entrance of their lofts waiting for you.

Instilling Good Habits while Young

Like a child, the racing pigeons should also be disciplined. The best time to do it is when they are still young. A tender age is a great opportunity to curb any unwanted behavior. The good habits that they acquire will be brought on until they become adults. Discourage any display of bad behavior and give rewards or treats for good behavior.

The Role of Basket Training

Sure enough, the birds will be flying around their loft. The next step is to basket train them. That means, taking them out of the loft and then releasing them to fly just outside the loft. Be sure to start it off in groups. Release them all at the same time. The younger ones often get scared at first and panic when they are no longer in one group.



Give them the idea that they train so they will be fed. Before releasing them, they should be hungry. They know that there is food and water in the loft so their tendency is to make it home fast. Other treats should also be available to add to their excitement.

Overall, the goal of training the racing pigeons is to enhance their so-called natural navigation system as well as develop in them the habit of returning to the loft at a faster travel rate.



Tuesday, June 5, 2018

BIRD NAMES


John James Audubon - American Stork - WGA01059
John James Audubon - American Stork
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Pick up a field guide and you'll notice that many birds seem to have been named after people. One could imagine that Mr. Bartlett must have been particularly fond of the Amazonian tinamou with which he bequeathed his name. And Mr. Gould must have been especially diligent, or possibly somewhat egotistical, given the existence of the Gould's Frogmouth, Gould's Inca, Gould's Jewelfront, Gould's Petrel, Gould's Shortwing, Gould's Sunbird, and Gould's Toucanet. But who are these people whose legacy resides in bird species, large and small?

A German-born naturalist, zoologist, explorer, and physician, Georg Wilhelm Steller explored much of the coast of Alaska and eastern Russia. During expeditions to the Kamchatka Peninsula and the Bering Sea, Steller lent his name to the Steller's Jay, Steller's Eider, and Steller's Sea-Eagle. He also named several marine mammals, including the extinct Steller's Sea Cow, a slow-moving behemoth whose limited range proved to be the source of its demise, and the Steller's Sea Lion, a regal pinniped whose population decline is mimicking that of its similarly-named cousin.

English: 1940 John James Audubon stamp
1940 John James Audubon stamp
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Alexander Wilson
Alexander Wilson is considered to be one of the greatest ornithologists and naturalists who lived in the time before esteemed heavyweight John James Audubon. Wilson was a Scottish poet, illustrator, and naturalist who embarked on an illustrated guide to North American birds in 1802. His efforts produced nine volumes illustrating 268 species, 26 of which had never been described. He is remembered in the names of the Wilson's Storm-Petrel, Wilson's Plover, Wilson's Phalarope, Wilson's Snipe, and Wilson's Warbler.

John James Audubon
Perhaps one of the most recognizable names in ornithology, John James Audubon lent his name to the Audubon's Oriole, Audubon's Shearwater, and the Audubon's Warbler, a race of the Yellow-rumped Warbler. He was also the namesake for the National Audubon Society, the world-renowned American conservation nonprofit. Audubon was an accomplished painter, and his book of stunningly detailed, hand-colored bird prints, Birds of America, has been regaled as the greatest picture book ever produced.

John Cassin.
John Cassin.
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
With nine birds named after him, John Cassin has the honor of being the person with the most avian namesakes. Cassin was an American ornithologist and the country's first taxonomist in the mid-1800s. He described almost 200 bird species, even during the age of two other fathers of ornithology, John James Audubon, and Alexander Wilson. Like Audubon, Cassin produced several books of colorful engravings and thoughtful descriptions and provided taxonomical reviews of bird families to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences, for which he acted as curator.

Swainson was an English ornithologist and all-around naturalist in the early 1800s. Son of John Timothy Swainson, who was an original member of the prestigious Linnean Society, one could assume that young William became a scientist early. However, a speech impediment and illness forced the young naturalist to end his formal education prematurely, and he became a customs clerk and toured Italy in the Army. In 1816, one year after he became a Linnean Society fellow, Swainson traveled to Brazil, where he documented and produced a detailed drawing of thousands of animals and plants. 

Later in life, Swainson moved to New Zealand, where he continued his zoological studies. Swainson left his name to the Swainson's Hawk, Swainson's Flycatcher, Swainson's Sparrow, Swainson's Spurfowl, Swainson's Thrush, and Swainson's Warbler.



Monday, June 4, 2018

How To Take Care Of Your PET PARROT

English: Eye of a female Eclectus Parrot (Ecle...
Eye of a female Eclectus Parrot (Eclectus roratus), seen through the wire mesh of its cage. - (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Parrots make wonderful family pets because they are great companions, they are beautiful birds with colorful feathers and you can teach them to talk. But you must have a strong level of commitment to your parrot because he will need daily and weekly maintenance, as well as plenty of attention.

What a Parrot Needs

When you consider how to take care of your parrot, you will have to consider what you will need to get started. The first thing you will need is a large cage for your parrot to live in. Make sure it is big enough for him to move around a bit and be comfortable. To occupy his time and make him feel comfortable you should place a mirror, a swing and a toy in the cage. You will also need something to properly line the cage.

What To Feed Your Parrot

A parrot should have a healthy, well-balanced diet. It should consist of fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts, meat, and grains. Peanut butter and cooked eggs are other sources of protein that are good for parrots. Pre-packaged parrot food is certainly another valid option. It takes the guesswork out of feeding your bird a wide variety of balanced nutrition. 

As with most pets, avoid feeding your parrot caffeine, alcohol, chocolate and salty foods.

Teaching Your Parrot To Talk

One of the most attractive features of this type of bird is that you can teach them to talk and whistle. Most people get a lot of enjoyment out of it. It does require a lot of time and repetition though and training should begin when the parrot is young. New words should be introduced with an activity so the parrot can link the two. He may even pick up on words you don’t really want him to learn just because he hears them often.

Whistling may come more natural for the birds and maybe encouraged after you have trained him to talk.

Provide Exercise

Your parrot will need to get daily exercise. Let him out of the cage for a small amount of time, starting with fifteen minutes at a time. Let them fly around the house and tire themselves out. See a professional for wing clippings when necessary.

Beak Care

Never try to trim your parrot’s beak at home. Seek a professional’s help when needed. Some things you can do at home to help your bird with beak care is to provide a concrete perch or a cuttlebone for him.

Maintenance

The basic things you need to commit to for taking care of your bird are quite simple, but they do require some effort on the owner’s part. In addition to never leaving his food bowl empty, you will need to provide him with fresh water twice a day. You will need to clean his cage on a weekly basis. You will also need to groom him 2-3 times per week. This can include a full bath given in a sink or washtub or by simply misting the bird and using specialized bird shampoo on him.

When all the work is done, you will have a beautiful pet that will provide hours of entertainment and joy.




Sunday, June 3, 2018

LORIES and LORIKEETS

Lories
Lories - Photo   by    foqus (cc)
I had always wanted a Lory but it seemed to not be in the cards. I visited the Birmingham Zoo in Alabama and went to the Lory exhibit which was very exciting. As I left one hid in my bag and tried to escape with me; little did I know I would have one join my flock. My friend had a Lory that needed to be adopted and we made the decision to have Zara join our home with our other three feathered friends.

Zara is a Blue-Streaked Lory and she is now 11 years old. She is quite the pistol and very animated. When we adopted her we didn't know what we were in for. Though I should have known when I left the zoo and the little escapologist hid in my bag. She has the most beautiful colorings I have seen. She is primarily red with black dispersed in her feathers. She has two dark blue streaks from the corner of her eyes and red with sky blue tips on her neck. She doesn't have belly feathers as she plucks which is now out of habit even though, she is still very beautiful.

There are two species. Lories which have short blunt tails and Lorikeets which have long tapering tails; though this usage can be subjective like parrot and parakeet. They are widely distributed within the Australian region, south-eastern Asia, Polynesian Islands, Papua New Guinea and Timor Leste.
Their plumage is very eye-catching and colorful. Because they are small and extremely beautiful many people want them. Like any parrot, the owner needs to be educated to Lory's special needs, particularly their specialized diet of a nectar replacement. Their droppings are very messy as it is mostly liquid.

We now have Zara a Blue-Streak Lory living amongst the flock and she is different from our other three as they are hookbills and eat a very different diet than Zara. Hookbills have the ability to open nuts and they eat the seed. It is dangerous for a Lory to eat seed as their esophagus lining is very thin and it could literally rip the esophagus lining and kill a Lory.

As to the diet a Lory eats, it sounds complex but it is actually very easy as they eat nectar, juice, fruit, and vegetables. When I feed Zara I mix her nectar powder with water and the temperature should be around 100 degrees Fahrenheit and made into syrup. She also has dry nectar that is near her water.

Lories have a specialized brush tipped-tongue (tufts of papillae, extremely fine hairs) which she uses to pick up her dry nectar and mix with water. Consequently, her droppings are very messy as her diet consists mostly of liquid.



Zara also eats fresh fruit like cantaloupe, apples, oranges, and berries on her fruit kabob. At night I give her a bowl of mixed veggies. Get the frozen veggie bag with peas, carrots, carrots and green beans. Just take out the green beans and lima beans as they are high in iron and Lories cannot break down iron in their liver. Lories are very iron sensitive. To help break down iron in Lory's liver I give Zara milk thistle (alcohol-free!!). As a treat, I give her one grape and she loves it. When feeding a Lory, always check the iron ratio. Lories are a little time-consuming but the reward is immeasurable!

Lories and Lorikeets are very playful, animated and the class clown. They are very mischievous so they do have to be in a cage when they are left alone. When I leave the house I put Zara in her cage and while we sleep. When Zara sleeps I cover her cage; it gives a sense of security like a child with a blanket.

The Ultramarine Lorikeet is endangered as it is one of the 50 rarest parrots in the wild. The Blue Lorikeet is classified as vulnerable because of the introduction of European rats to the small island habitats in which they live. There have been conservation efforts in relocating these colorful clowns to locations free of predation and destruction.

As I have said Lories and Lorikeets are a very special breed of parrots and require a lot of attention. Keep in mind they are like a domesticated hummingbird only in parrot form.
Lories and Lorikeets are very high-strung and have a lot of energy because the nectar is mainly made up of sugars, their fruit has a lot of sugar and the juice they drink is made up of sugars. They are always on the go. Keeping this in mind they are very enticing as they are small and extremely colorful.

I can leave my other three feathered friends out of their cages when I leave and they will still be sitting where I left them when I get home. Zara, on the other hand, will have roamed the house and needless to say I have to search the house for her.
Zara may seem like a lot of work but she well worth it. I am very pleased she has joined our flock.




Friday, June 1, 2018

ECLECTUS PARROT - The Ideal Parrot Type For Beginners

Eclectus Parrot - Female
Eclectus Parrot - Photo   by    Kurayba  (cc)
The Eclectus parrot is an Asiatic parrot type that is widely bred in Europe and the United States. This bird, which is endemic in New Guinea, is ideal for people who are looking for their first parrot pet because it can adapt well in a cage and can be easy to care for in comparison to other parrot species. But before you go to your nearest pet store to buy this type of bird, you might want to know the unique characteristics of an Eclectus parrot. Here they are.

One of the things that set this parrot type apart from other birds under the same species is the huge difference in the appearance of males and females. An adult male Eclectus parrot generally has a bright green plumage with some tints of deep blue on its wings and tails and a patch of crimson on its side. The upper bill of the male Eclectus is coral with a bright yellow tip, while the lower part of its bill is black. The eyes of this small parrot, which can grow to as large as 14 inches, are brown. The female Eclectus, on the other hand, has bright red plumage. You will notice that the back, base of the tail, and the wings of the female are deep red. Moreover, you will also find a purplish blue band on the body and tips of the auxiliary wings. Lastly, the mandibles of the female are black.

The temperament of this Asiatic parrot type is quite calm and peaceful when it is inside the cage. In fact, many parrot owners say that the Eclectus is one of the quietest of all parrot breeds. Even when this parrot is dispirited and lonely, you will not hear it complain or make irritating cries. However, make sure that it does not become too lively or agitated so that you won't hear its infamous "Crrah" sound that some people say can be ear piercing.



Another reason why an Eclectus parrot type is good for beginners is that it can easily adapt to its new owners and even crave for their attention and pleasure. Once you have hand-tamed this bird, you can already teach it with tricks and pet it on the head and wings. In fact, you can even expect to hear it mimic a few words. Feeding an Eclectus is simple. Aside from giving it fruits and nuts, you also need to provide it with fresh vegetables regularly.




Thursday, May 31, 2018

BUDGERIGAR - Melopsittacus undulatus

Budgerigar - Melopsittacus undulatus



Wednesday, May 30, 2018

Essential Guide to Buying The Best Pet PARROT !!

Imperial Amazon (also known as the Imperial Pa...
Imperial Amazon (also known as the Imperial Parrot and Sisserou Parrot)
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
All bird lovers listen up!! Do you know how many bird species are there in the world?

Answer: Over 9000 species. And out of which the parrot group itself consists of about 330 species and are particularly popular with pet owners.

If you are also thinking of keeping a pet parrot, read below for the tips I am going to provide for selecting the suitable parrot for yourself and the family.

Parrot Buying Tip (1) -- Buy a young parrot

Rearing a new parrot from young helps to facilitate taming. An older parrot can also be tamed just that it takes more time and patience. However, the tricky part is in determining the age of the bird. However, some basic things to look out for are the scales on its legs, the color of the eye and the color of the body. A young parrot often has a dark gray iris that becomes white or brown when it grows up. The scales of young parrots are also much smoother than that of mature birds. Their body color also appears initially to be much duller than when they are matured.

The best option is to buy one which is newly born which is independent of its parent.

Parrot Buying Tip (2) -- Choose the right species of parrot

Do you know the characteristics of the parrot you are interested in buying?

Do they

  • -make tremendously loud voices which can cause huge disturbance to the neighbors?
  • -have powerful beaks that can damage your personal belongings if let free in the house?
  • -need special nutritional foods? Some birds such as the lorikeets need special foods since they feed on nectar. This also relates to cost.

Parrot Buying Tip (3) -- Check the condition of the parrot

If possible, ask for a certified health certificate by the veterinary so that you have an assurance of buying a healthy parrot home. If that is not available, don't worry, you can check out the below factors for some tell-tale signs of the conditions of the bird.

i) Inspect the living conditions of the bird. Dirty or poorly maintained perches, food, and water containers, excess fecal wastes in the cage, all show poor management of the birds leading to bad health. The eyes should also be clear and not showing any discharge. Also look out for any swelling signs which will indicate rising health problems.

ii) The bird feathers should be tidy and clean. Any bald areas on the parrot body could indicate an infection which is very unsightly and may not be able to cure, or it may also be due to the parrot being a feather plucker which means it is getting very boring. This activity may stop when you start to show it more attention. Then again, it is better to stay clear of such birds, since they could be carrying diseases on their bodies which you don't want it to spread to your family members.

iii) Support the bird on its back and check the vent for cleanliness. Also, check for any crusty appearance on and around the beak which could indicate a mite issue subjecting from unclean environments.

iv) Also feel the flesh on both sides of the breastbone, and ensure it is solid and not hollowed. If protruding, it also indicates a nutritional deficiency and should be avoided.

v) Ensures all claws are there. There should be 2 toes pointing forward, 2 facing backward. Check for any protruding leg scales as they could be potential sources for leg mites.

vi) Beware of birds that act aggressively towards you when you try to approach it. Symptoms include fluffing up feathers and eyes dilating when you try to move your hand close to it. These birds are probably not young birds, and they will likely bite you if you cross its safety zone.


Parrot Buying Tip (4) -- Buy from reputable, reliable sources

Buying from well-established and reputable pet shops assures you the best quality services, and often the pets you are buying through them have been certified to be in good health before they release it out for sale.

Avoid open markets, and buying through mail order. It is always good to see and feel what you are buying so that you don't regret your buying decisions later. If you don't, how do you implement parrot buying tip 3?

Conclusion

To summarize, it is great to have parrots as pets, as they can be a good source of fun and companionship. However, it is important to know some essential tips on selecting and buying the right parrot, and this can be categorized into 4 great tips namely to buy a young parrot, choose the desired parrot species, check the condition of the parrot, and always buy from reputable pet shops.


Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Raising SWANS is Not As Difficult As You May Think - If You Know How

A Trumpeter Swan (Cygnus buccinator) in captiv...
A Trumpeter Swan (Cygnus buccinator) in captivity at the Akron Zoo in Akron, Ohio.
(Photo credit: 
Wikipedia)
Raising swans is not as difficult as you may think. You only need to have a male and a female, a fresh body of water and feed and you can get started in this venture. There is a bit more to it, but the basics are that you provide water and food for the creatures and allow them to frolic as nature intended. You should not attempt to contain the swans in close quarters or keep them as a domestic pet. Swans are not meant to be domesticated as dogs or cats but are free birds. They will grace your property with their beauty if you provide for their needs.

One of the first things that you need to know about raising swans is that they are social creatures. They mate for life and will continue to produce baby swans, called cygnets. The mother swan will lay the eggs, nest and both parents will care for the swans when they hatch. You do not have to interfere in the raising of the swan family as the parents will have this under control. What you can do, when raising swans, is to make sure they have plenty of shelter, a warm nesting place and fresh water for swimming and drinking.

Another aspect about raising swans is that you should protect them from predators. If you have a fence around the area where the swans are kept, you can keep out animals that will prey on the swans. This includes coyotes, foxes and even feral cats. By keeping a fence up, you can keep the predators out and make sure that they do not bother your swans. It is very crucial, when raising swans, that you look out for their safety.

Making sure that they have plenty of food every day is one of the best ways of raising swans successfully. Raising swans is like raising any other type of creature and they need to be fed. Food, water and shelter are the natural elements that are needed when raising swans.

After the cygnets have grown and are old enough to fly the nest, you can actually sell them if you decide to become a swan breeder. The swans that you breed will depend on the area of the world where you live and where the creatures are native. In North America, the most commonly found swan is the Trumpeter Swan. In Australia, the Black Swan is found, as well as other breeds. 



There are many breeds of swans throughout the world and are part of the geese and duck family. Raising swans should entail you opening up a swan sanctuary for the creatures where you can also raise other birds at the same time. Swans will tolerate other creatures such as ducks and geese, that can also be raised under the same conditions needed for raising swans.




Monday, May 28, 2018

Best SEEDS For PET BIRDS - 3 Sources of Nutritious Seeds For Your Bird

Bulk Pet Food - Ring Bros Market Cape Cod
Bulk Pet Food - Photo  by      Shannon At Zeer
If you've been reading up on what seeds are best to feed your pet bird, you've found that there are literally thousands of different types of seeds for pet birds.

Birds, like people, eat with their eyes as well as their mouths. Their seeds need to be colorful with different textures to stimulate interest and appetite. In the wild birds would be able to choose a variety of different looking and tasting seeds, but in captivity, they depend on you to provide an interesting and varied presentation. Here are 3 nutritious sources of seeds to add to your bird's diet. To avoid pesticides and another additive organic is best.

Sprouted Seeds-Before seeds sprout they are high in fat content because that is the food used to help it grow leaves and start to become a plant. Once it sprouts the fat is used and the sprouted seed becomes a little plant that is the source of a nutrient-rich diet. And as the seeds continue to sprout each day, they provide a different nutrients-a gift that keeps on giving comes to mind. You can choose to sprout your own organic seeds or buy a sprout mix. Sprouted seeds are a great way to give your bird fresh greenery daily. It may seem tedious at first, but like anything else, once you have your system down you'll find it to be a cheap but wholesome way to supplement your bird's diet. Broccoli, kale, sesame, sunflower, radish, popcorn are just a few of many that will provide vitamins and minerals that your bird needs to stay healthy.

Vegetable Seeds-Most of the vegetables that we can't wait to deseed are exactly the seeds that are best for birds. Foods like pumpkins, squash, bell peppers in any color, and cucumbers all contain wonderful sources of nutrients that are wholesome but don't cost you any extra money to provide. So the next time you're planning a meal that includes any of these, share with your feathered companion.
Fruit Seeds-Another great source for seeds, fruits are rich in nutrients and many like seeded grapes have a double advantage in that they allow your bird to hunt for the seed that's inside.



Others to provide include pomegranate, apples, oranges, watermelon, honeydew melon, and cantaloupe. The advantage of feeding your bird fresh seeds cannot be overstated and will pay off in healthier, more vibrant feathers, a bright-eyed bird with lots of energy, and one that is more likely to resist disease and infection because of the strong immune system that these nutrients foster. The very foods that keep your feathered friend healthy also keep you healthy, and that's a great payoff as well.



Saturday, May 26, 2018

To prepare the cage for the BUDGIE

Look at me, I'm outside!
Budgie Cage - Photo  by    Kurayba (cc)
From the smallest parrots with great popularity among the lovers have budgies – their weight reaches up to 40 grams, and the length of their body is no more than 20 – 23 cm. Usually, cages for budgies are sold equipped with perches, made of wood or hard plastics. But after that the owner of the feathery ones has to complete the interior with several real, rough, unattractive twigs, because if the budgie never changes the position of its toes and always holds tight to the flat and smooth surface of standard sick, its toes start swelling, rubbing sore and there start to appear wounds and scabs. 

If you don't have fine sandpaper to cover the floor, you can spread out under the layer of very fine ballast (or very coarse sand ) and an ordinary newspaper, which must not have colored illustrations. Most printing inks are poisonous for budgies. Something more that can threaten your birds is using twigs from the coniferous tree – yew, whose wood is also poisonous for birds. It is best for this purpose to use twigs from orchard trees. 

WHAT DO THEY NEED? 

My recommendation is to use transparent feeders – thus it will be easier for the budgie to find its food when it sees the food. Feeders must be of two types – one for seeds and sand with stones and another bigger one for the vegetation and fruit. The sand could be from the sea, mixed with crushed shells and mussels ( but not from the white one that is sold for the Canaries), and the stones should be from granite or flint. Budgies get bored with the same toys, so it is better to change or to take turns of them into the cage. It is considered that a mirror makes the loneliness of the bird more endurable – looking into the mirror the bird start imagining that it is not alone, but I consider that constant looking in the mirror is not recommendable because of a danger of inhibition. 

Choose the most spacious cage, which you can afford and which you can dispose at home. It is considered that the ideal size of cage for a couple of budgies is 91/45/45 cm, and when only one bird is going to live in the cage its size could be 2/3 from the stated one. Don't be in a hurry with you purchase – many cages are sold in the zoo shops, but you can have the chance to buy a suitable already used one. Different constructions exist, so it is sensible not to hurry so that you can buy something really good. You buy a home for your budgies, where their life will pass, so do your best to choose such, where they will feel best. Choosing a cage it is not bad to think about some things. 

Is it spacious enough? Is its shape proper – you might like a high circular cage, but in “ lodgings ” birds very often don't have enough room to move and to outspread their wings. It can seem less important, but closing the door must be secure. There should be a mobile plastic bottom in the cage, which to ease cleaning it. The sticks of the cage can be chromium plated or glazed and it is good to have horizontal not only vertical sticks on the sides of the cage so that the budgies can climb easily. The perches must be located so that birds can reach all feeders and watering troughs and place one higher than the other ones. Don't install them near the sides of the cage, because staying on them, budgies will constantly rub their tails on the metal sticks. Prepare the cage before buying your feathery friend. And when you take it from the shop, put it in a cardboard box, handle it with care and quickly take it home. 

If it is cold outside wrap the box, but so that you don't reduce air flow. At hoe wash the whole cage with very hot water, but neither use soap nor washing detergents, use only special disinfection means, that are intended for birdcages. This is absolutely compulsory if you have obtained a used cage. Dry very well the new home of the bird. Place a sheet of very fine sandpaper on the bottom and spread fine ballast. After that, install the perches, feeders and water troughs. 

Birds don't like the location of the cage to be often changed, that is why choose the most proper place for them in your flat right in the beginning. The place should be lighted up enough, but not to be lit up directly by sunlight. If you have a glassed balcony from late spring to early autumn you can keep your birds there. You can put pots with big - leaved plants around the cage. Thus birds will feel well. The balcony should not be facing south, because during the hot summer days the bird can die of overheating. When temperatures get lower you should bring the bird inside the flat Watch out not to put it near the central-heating or other heating devices because air is drier there. When you bring the birds in be careful because of the make lots of mess around especially when they start flying in the cage.



It is known that budgies like to have company – your feathery pet will feel best in the room where the whole family gathers. Choose a room, where you can let the bird fly free –this is very important for its education. Budgies also need fresh air – that is why the room should not be stifling. Exactly because of this reason the cage of the birds should not be put in the kitchen as some beginners do. The steam that appears when cooking is harmful to birds. Except for that, it is very dangerous when flying in the kitchen the budgie to have a tragic end. 

The cage should not be put in front of the window – there the sensitive feathery creatures very sensibly feel the atmosphere changes – the cold in winter and the burning sunrays in summer. The cage should not be exposed to draughts, very close to the radiator of the central heating or near the fireplace. Whether the cage is placed on a special for this purpose rack is not very important – it could be placed on every solid table or shelf. But on a special rack the cage takes less space, it can be put higher, which the birds will like and it will be easier to move it. 

Budgies suffer if they don't sleep enough. That is why you should cover their cage with a light material – it reduces light, but birds don't stay in full darkness.



Friday, May 25, 2018

PARROT Perils - 5 Dangers to Help Your Pet PARROT Avoid

Timneh African Grey Parrot (Psittacus erithacu...
Timneh African Grey Parrot (Psittacus erithacus timneh) – subspecies of the (Psittacus erithacus). Pet parrot sanding on a cage. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Parrots are beautiful birds. Regardless of whether you have a pet Quaker, Macaw, African Grey, Lorikeet, Cockatoo, or a Red Throated Conure (there wasn’t space for me to name them all); they are wonderful, loving, and colorful additions to our world.

In order to keep them healthy, owners must be ever vigilant about perils that could, in the blink of an eye, take them from us. Here are 5 of the most common perils that face pet parrots and suggestions for how to avoid them.

1. Food Toxicity-When deciding on the best diet for your parrot, you have certainly seen warnings about various people foods that can have devastating consequences if ingested by your bird. These include but are not limited to avocados, chocolate, alcohol, caffeine, sugar, and peanuts. There are several other things to be careful about.

When putting fresh food out (and you should do this daily if possible), make sure you allow the food to stay in the cage for only an hour or so. As you become more aware of your pet’s eating habits, even 30 minutes may be long enough. But the important thing to remember is to remove fresh food before your bird has any chance of ingesting food that is moldy. This can have grave consequences. Change water as often as it takes to keep it fresh.

Feeding your parrot small portions will round out his nutritional requirements by allowing you to feed it a little bit of all the types of food he needs rather than too large a portion of any one food.

2. Injury Outside the Cage-One of the most frequent demises of parrots happens when they are outside the cage. Be sure to go over rooms that you intend to let your bird explore before you release it from the cage. Hide wires, and protect those that are visible from being chewed by encasing them in heavy-duty plastic hoses. Turn off ceiling fans, cover mirrors, and close draperies to prevent your parrot from flying into them.

Put covers on pots on the stove, and put the top down on the toilet. Limit access to other pets while your parrot is on the loose, particularly if there is any chance that there might be aggression for any reason. Avoid opening doors to the outside especially if your bird is a strong flier. Always supervise your parrot closely when it is out of the cage.

3. Injury Inside the Cage-Often injury inside the cage results because the cage is too small or the bars on the cage are big enough for a head or some other extremity to get caught in. Double check the cage you select to make sure it does not have harmful metals or paints that are toxic. Parrots have incredibly strong beaks, so be certain the cage is strong enough to stand up to those powerful jaws. Stainless steel cages take the worry out of this problem because of strength, longevity, and lack of toxins.

4. Dangerous Toys-Because parrots are such strong chewers, a toy that was safe one day may become chewed until it is not. Monitor toys closely and rotate unsafe toys out immediately replacing them with new or other toys that are still safe.

5. Disease and Infection-Birds are programmed to hide illness because in the wild illness would make them subject to attack. So, unfortunately, disease and infections in parrots are often irreversible by the time they exhibit any symptoms. However, cleanliness plays a large part in keeping your bird healthy. Clear away droppings daily or more often if necessary. This keeps minuscule pieces of dried feces from becoming an airborne and spreading disease. Wash food and water dishes daily. Keep floors and walls in the bird’s room clean, and completely sanitize the cage monthly.

You should also keep the air clear of dander, dust, feather and other airborne pollutants that are present in your home’s air even without a parrot. Normal household pollutants such as dust, dust mites, mold and mildew spores, pollen, other pet’s dander can all combine to clog your bird’s air passages which makes your parrot more susceptible to illnesses.

Using a high-efficiency particle arresting (HEPA) air purifier will eliminate these airborne carriers of disease and lessen the number of parrot perils you and your parrot encounter.


    An excellent HEPA air purifier to remove airborne pollutants from your parrot’s air is offered by PurerAir.com, the Bird Dander Purifier See it now at http://purerair.com/bird_dander_air_purifier.html



Thursday, May 24, 2018

BIRD WATCHING - A Hobby with A Cause

Birders at Caerlaverock, watching Britain's fi...
Birders at Caerlaverock, watching Britain's fifth White-tailed Lapwing (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Bird watching as a hobby has long been contested by the birders, saying that the two are not in any way the same. While birdwatchers do such as part of an activity during recreation, birders are into it with intense dedication. 

The Birders
May it is in the UK or in the United States, birders say that what they are doing is far from just a pastime or a relaxation thing. For them, they do such to study not only the species of birds but also their patterns. They don't base their analogies on mere observation and they invest in the latest optical equipment to strengthen their claims. 

Instead of going where the birdwatchers usually go, the birders are always on the lookout for new and unexplored sites, hoping to find more information. They would even allow a budget for travel, however far it will take them, just to expand their knowledge and to discern a lot more about the subject that they are most interested in, birds.

The Birdwatchers
These people go about bird watching by only observing with their eyes. They may also opt for binoculars but aren't really focusing on the technology. They wouldn't care if their apparels are not the latest in the market, they can even go about without those gadgets. What's important is that they get a sense of fulfilment from what they are doing, they get to relax, see the birds and enjoy the sights.

The birdwatchers couldn't care less where they do their stuff. They would even do it in their own backyards or just go to nature reserves nearest to them. If they happen to be on vacation, they can do it wherever they are, whenever they please to do it. These people have the love for the birds but don't really want to take that feeling further by going the scientific route, because by doing so, they might miss out the fun that they intend to have.

The Right Time
Bird watching on regions that have temperate weather are most active in the spring and fall migrations. During such time, the widest array of birds could be seen as these birds relocate northbound or southbound in trying to find nesting sites.



For the hobbyists and professionals, it is advisable to do the act in the early morning where the birds are looking for food. This way, observation can be done at a lengthier time and you can see them easily while they are onto their task.

This type of bird watching is for people who would go near coastal areas to find watchpoints like the headland to be able to see the birds flying over to the sea. The birds that can be observed from such are called the pelagic kinds. The pelagic species of birds can also be observed when one is aboard a seagoing vessel.

Proper Etiquette
Whether you're a birder or a birdwatcher, you should always look out for the well-being of the birds and also have some positive notes on what you are doing. You can lead the way to promote cleanliness of the environment so that the natural habitat of this kind wouldn't be harmed. Also, you should be vigilant about the latest technology when you use them as part of the activity, that it won't affect the birds in a negative manner.

Bird watching may just be a hobby but one that must be done with passion and concern for the birds and their welfare.



Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Chestnut-mandibled (Swainsons) TOUCAN

Swainsons Toucan